It’s January, and once again the masses have begun devising plans to reinvent better versions of themselves. I’m no different with my determination to forever lose those extra 20 pounds – for the purpose of these brunch blogs, I’m praying that Sunday calories don’t count! In church today, I heard a nugget of wisdom that will hopefully help me, and perhaps you, when we’re ready to quit our New Year resolutions in mid-March – “Passion is what you want most, while Impulse is what you want now.”
There is no greater example of this focus displayed than in those who leave everything they know behind in their motherlands in the hopes of making a better life for themselves and their families in a new country. Often the reward of their toils are only realized by their children decades later. As a second generation Indian American, I am so honored by the obstacles my parents faced so that I could have the opportunities I enjoy today. Too often immigrants find themselves taking on menial jobs that do not reflect the skills they earned in the countries of their childhood, but they push forward because they are here to survive, and keep taking one day at a time with a focus on their “tomorrow” dreams. For a slight reprieve from their daily humdrum, first generation immigrants often take comfort in creating glimpses of the familiar in their new home.
For those from Vietnam, this phenomenon can be experienced to its fullest at the Eden Center in Arlington, VA – the largest Vietnamese center on the east coast. And so there I headed to have Sunday “brunch” at the famed Rice Paper. I used parentheses here because nothing served at Rice Paper on Sunday afternoon is different from their regular lunch menu…but is definitely still a great place to visit on Sunday afternoon.
As any true mecca, the hustle and bustle of Eden Center will be on full display as you turn into the massive parking lot: come here with patience and a willingness to walk off your food even before you eat it. The journey from finding a parking space to waiting for a seat will be forgiven with Rice Paper’s fast and personal lunch service and the rich layered flavors of their culinary treasures. We arrived fairly early and waited only about fifteen minutes, but the line was clearly longer after 12:30.
Rice Paper is considered a “cheap eat,” so you can order many items to sample and then bring your bounties home for subsequent feasts. Those who are watching their pocketbooks can take comfort that one can easily fill up for under $25 dollars. I took the first approach and ordered Cha Gio (crispy spring rolls), Rice Paper’s Yelp-famous Oc Len Xao Dua (coconut escargot curry), the Rice Paper Combo Platter, and Bun Bo Hue (spicy beef noodle soup). I did not get their Banh Xeo (Vietnamese crepe) because I order it all the time at my local Vietnamese dive near my house (my husband’s regular lunch escape). If you’re new to Vietnamese food, Banh Xeo is a light, unique, yet safe place to start appreciating Vietnamese cuisine.
Cha Gio are unique from their other Asian spring roll counterparts since they are rolled in rice paper rather than Chinese spring roll wrappers, stuffed with minced pork, minced crab and glass noodles and then fried. Rice Paper’s version was wonderfully crispy and light. However, it was their sweet and spicy dipping sauce that made this dish stand out for me. The sauce was reminiscent of a light, delicately diluted duck sauce mixed with chilies.
Our spring rolls came out with the Oc Len Xoa Dua, the escargot dish that seems to get much traffic via the pictures on Yelp, but was my least favorite dish. To me it seemed like a bowl of very small snails in a light curry sauce that reminded me of bland Thai food. The small escargot needed to be sucked out of its shells…which would have made for a fun experience if they didn’t fight so hard to stay inside their swirly homes. At one point I asked my husband if they might still be alive. What did come out seemed like a slimy mess. I love succulent briny oysters and soft juicy French escargots in butter and garlic, but this was not that. In addition, the dish was 90% coconut curry and could have benefitted from some accompanying sticky rice.
Rice Paper’s sample platter comes with beautiful pork skewers that reminded me of the pork chops my mom learned to make from her Filipino co-worker when I was a child. The flavors of ginger and garlic stand out while still having a crisp texture from the caramelized sugars from the marinade. My husband and I must have had some “deer in headlights” glances, because our motherly server came over to show us how to soften the rice paper in the made-for-rice-paper serving tool that had an attached water compartment into which you were to dip the paper. She then went on the cut up our entire platter for us and assemble a sample rice paper roll. It was a quiet and dignified gesture to ensure that we fully appreciated the food that was coming out of Rice Paper’s kitchen.
Last, but not least, my favorite part of my meal was the Bon Bo Hue. This prize-worthy spicy beef soup (meant for two) promises rich flavor and slurp-worthy noodles… if you can get past the list of ingredients, which includes blood and pigs feet. The spice level is just enough to keep the dish interesting and is toned down by the abundance of noodles and addable cabbage and bean sprouts that come on the side. You won’t be reaching for your water but you may be breathing a bit more clearly once you hit the halfway point. At the same time, the addictive curry blend will keep you digging for more. The feel of the noodle thickness and tenderness reminds me of Dan Dan noodles at Panda Gourmet. I really loved this Rice Paper’s Bon Bo Hue. I have had many Asian soups and stews around DC, and for me this rivals the flavor depths and profile of Toki Underground’s Classic Ramen. I know I might have inherited some haters here, but feel free to try it and see.
As a parting thought: If I wasn’t so full, I would have ended my meal with a Vietnamese coffee and some mocha wrapped pastries from the bakery next door. After lunch, don’t miss out of the chance to discover the cultural wonder that is the Eden Center.
