3 Malts and Hops

I attended a media tasting event given by Mad Fox Brewing Company in Falls Church, and walked away impressed.  The first good thing about going to Mad Fox:  the parking.  They have a FREE parking garage attached to the building, and the experience only gets better once you enter the establishment.  We were given a group tour and tasted a couple of exclusive beers while the owner, Bill Madden, explained the brewing process and how Mad Fox got its start.  In the main dining area, casks of beer age until maturation.  He told us that he began the practice out of necessity, but customers enjoyed the idea of sitting next to the aging brews.  Once in the distilling room, Bill shared information about the different types of malts and hops that go into flavoring a beer; for instance, malts can be pale, crystal, or chocolate.  Meanwhile we tasted his English Summer Ale and Russian Imperial Stout.  The English (which was being brewed for a beer competition in San Diego) was nicely balanced, had a medium head, and was cloudy and honey-colored in the glass.  The Russian – called

Caramel Bacon Donuts

Crazy Ivan – had a thin head, was clear and dark brown in the glass, and tasted faintly like molasses.  The finish on this big beer was toasty, and I found it to be extremely pleasing to drink.  Honestly, I’ll probably go back on Tuesday, February 7, when they tap the casks for the general public.

After the behind-the-scenes tour, we were escorted to our dining area.  The house-made Caramel Bacon Donuts (sic) awaited us in trios.  It was odd to receive dessert first, but that didn’t deter anyone from digging in.  Still warm, they had a great yeasty flavor.  If you’re the type of person who doesn’t like an ultra-sweet dessert, then I’d recommend these donuts.  The donuts themselves aren’t sweet – the caramel glaze handles that department, while the bacon covers those who like salty treats.  Shortly after we sat down, servers brought out glasses of the house-made Root Beer .  I’m generally not a fan of root beer, but I can honestly endorse Mad Fox’s version.  It was dark and clear, and it smelled delicious.  I would recommend it to go with any of the entrees for a workday lunch.

Buffalo Chicken Pizza

Next up were the appetizers.  Each arrived with a different dipping sauce attuned to the flavors and scents of the bite-sized food it accompanied.  First up – the Dutch Style Bitterballen.  At first glance, they appear to be fine-crumb hush puppies.  However, the little spheres contained delicious beef and vegetables flavored with a little curry powder.  The texture was soft, almost like biting into a ball of mashed potatoes, and I mean that in a good way.  The Bitterballen were served with a curry aioli that made them even more delicious.  If you’re craving Indian food, these little treats will satisfy the urge.  Frickles seem to be one of the many dishes served at Mad Fox that you’d be pressed to find elsewhere.  Battered and deep-fried pickle slices were piled into a metal serving basket with a silver cup of chipotle sauce.  The batter was slightly spicy, and the dipping sauce upped the ante for those who like it hot.  I’m not generally a fan of pickles, but these were so good that I have to recommend them.  Lastly, the Pretzel Bites came out.  They looked like any other pretzel pieces you may come across.  The difference?  Smoked salt sprinkled over them and the grainy mustard served with them.  The salt is

Dutch Style Bitterballen

subtle and quite frankly, if you weren’t paying attention you’d likely miss it.  The mustard sauce was very good and made in-house, and the pretzels had a great texture and taste.

The Kellerbier Kölsch was the first beer we were served, and it arrived with the appetizers.  An unfiltered beer, it was cloudy in the glass.  The faintly yellow beverage had a thin head and was hoppy.  Following the Kellerbier, two immense pizzas arrived.  The first appeared bright orange with a sprinkling of green.  The Buffalo Chicken pizza lived up to its name.  Topped with shredded buffalo chicken, onions, celery, cilantro, and bleu cheese, it tasted great.  If you’re a wings fan, I’d suggest ordering this pizza.  The second looked like a traditional Italian pizza with toppings distinct from the cheese.  It turned out to be the Balsamic Blues pizza.  Topped with figs,

Stuffed Meatloaf

caramelized onions, rosemary, bacon, and bleu cheese, it was generously drizzled with balsamic vinegar.  My mouth is watering just thinking about how amazing this pizza tasted.  I cannot recommend the Balsamic Blues highly enough—it was excellent.

Two huge platters of sliders arrived with glasses of Kölsch.  Clear and crisp, the beer was the filtered version of the Kellerbier.  It was just as hoppy as the first, but it had a cleaner finish.  It went extremely well with the two sliders.  The Mad Fox slider consisted of a thick and juicy burger, topped with oven-roasted tomatoes (delicious!), caramelized onions and some blend of cheese that melted and oozed down the sides.  It’s exactly the kind of burger that satisfies the carnivore inside (almost) all of us.  The Brisket slider tasted like a really good French Dip with barbecue sauce instead of au jus.  Thick slices of beef, pickles, barbecue sauce, and red onions were nestled in a hoagie-type of roll.  Either sandwich would be perfect for lunch, especially on the

Veg Wellington

weekend with a tall glass of Kölsch.

The staff brought out glasses of Saison, a platter of Virginia Pork Belly slices with little spoonbreads, and a platter piled high with Veg Wellington.  The Saison was light yellow in the glass, and just a bit cloudy.  It had a little bit of a biscuity flavor, which is probably due to the yeast content of the beer.  Personally, I liked it very much and would suggest ordering it with a comfort-food meal.  I was intrigued by the pork belly dish because I’d never had spoonbread at a restaurant before.  It tasted just as good as any homemade version I’ve ever had.  The pork belly melted in my mouth, and the taste of molasses and teriyaki went beautifully with the spoonbread.  It’s an easy recommendation for a delicious dinner entrée; however, Mad Fox places it with their appetizers.  The Veg Wellington was an interesting dish.  The stuffing included barley and a mix of onions, carrots, celery, and other vegetables – the flavor impressed me, which says something, considering it was a

Kolsch with Slider

vegetarian dish.  The flaky crust kept its shape, though the accompanying sautéed spinach and marinara sauce shared the platter.

A couple bowls of Shrimp and Grits made their way to the sidebar, along with two bowls of Garden Salad.  We were served glasses of the 80 Shilling Malt, which smelled faintly toasty and sweet.  Clear and medium brown in the glass, the beer had a thin head and tasted malty.  This was my second favorite beer overall and it complemented the shrimp dish very well.  The shrimp were tail-on, but otherwise the dish was very good.  It’s billed as Louisiana-style, and I’d have to agree.  The seasonings for the tomato base brought out the creaminess of the grits.  I would absolutely order this entrée for dinner.  The salad was comprised of arugula, romaine, carrot shreds, celery, spinach, and thin-sliced red onion.  What made the salad special was the dressing.  Chef

Defender American Pale Ale

Russel Cunningham shared with us that he reduces some of their beers, and the resulting liquid is used as a syrup in their dressings.  It’s definitely not an ingredient you’ll run into on a regular basis, so enjoy it on the salads you order at Mad Fox.  The Broad Street IPA made its way to the tables; the beer was light brown and slightly cloudy.  It had a medium head and had a regulated bite.  The hops dominate this beer, making it a good match for the heavier dishes.

Our last dish to taste ended up being the Stuffed Meatloaf and Mashed Potatoes, served with the Defender American Pale Ale.  This beer was my favorite overall.  It was complex, and nicely balanced between malt and hops.  Capped by a thick head, the clear yellow beer tasted sweeter than expected and finished with a bittersweet flavor.  The meatloaf was amazing, in short.  First of all, it’s wrapped in bacon.  Second, it’s stuffed with provolone and prosciutto.  The mashed potatoes were creamy and mixed with herbs, but not over-mashed.  A mix of vegetables, including Brussels sprouts, purple cabbage, and carrots comes with the dish, and the pan gravy was the perfect consistency.  If you try one dish while at Mad Fox, make it their Stuffed Meatloaf with a tall glass of Defender American Pale Ale.

-TKW

My lovely wife is in the habit of ordering one thing time and again when we call out for Chinese food:  chicken with broccoli.  It’s usually pretty good at my local take-out, but I’ve gotten unlucky before, and the chicken can be rubbery, the broccoli way overcooked and the sauce cloyingly sweet.

I was determined to make it better (and cheaper!) at home.

This recipe is an easy stir-fry for the home cook.  No special equipment required – while I’m sure it’d be nice to use a wok over a roaring flame, I have an electric stovetop, so I just pulled out the biggest skillet in my cupboard.  Prep is important when stir-frying – once your pan is on the heat, everything comes together quickly, so you’ll want all of your ingredients assembled and at the ready.  Another technique note:  the chicken is “velveted” in this recipe, or tossed with cornstarch slurry to protect it during cooking.  This is the first time I’ve tried this technique but it seemed to work – the meat was moist and flavorful even having simmered for about 20 minutes on the stove after cooking.  Once it all came together, it looked a little something like this:

I finished the dish with a few pinches of kosher salt and awaited my wife’s return home.  And with crisp broccoli, savory chicken and a sauce that doesn’t drown everything else out, you simply can’t go wrong.

Enjoy!

Chicken with Broccoli, Chinese Take-out Style

Ingredients

1 lb broccoli – 2 large heads should do it

2 tsp cornstarch

2 tsp rice wine vinegar

1 lb chicken breasts or chicken tenders, cubed

3 tbsp soy sauce

3 tbsp hoisin sauce

1 ½ tsp sugar

4 tbsp canola oil

1 chunk unpeeled fresh ginger

1 clove garlic, peeled

1 can (8 oz) sliced bamboo shoots (check the international aisle of your local grocery store)

1 tsp sesame oil 

Directions

Chop the broccoli into florets and stalks.  It’s easiest to slice the florets off in one stroke, then slice the stalks into bite-size pieces.

In a work bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and rice wine vinegar (and do it quickly; the cornstarch can clump easily in the liquid).  Add the chicken and toss with your hands to evenly coat all of the pieces.

In a small bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, hoisin sauce, sugar and 2 tbsp water.  Set aside.

In a large skillet or stir-fry pan, heat 1 tbsp canola oil over high heat (and make sure it’s canola, otherwise you’ll set off your smoke alarm!)  Once hot, toss the broccoli into the pan and cook for about 30 seconds.  Add three tbsp water to the pan, reduce heat to medium and cover.  Cook the broccoli for another 3 minutes or so, stirring occasionally.  Set the broccoli aside.

Heat 3 tbsp canola oil over high heat, then add the ginger and garlic to the pan.  Once the ginger and garlic start to sizzle, add the chicken and toss throughout the pan to cook evenly.  Be very careful at this stage, as the oil will spatter everywhere.

Once the chicken chunks all look cooked on the outside, remove the ginger and garlic, then reduce heat to medium and add the soy sauce mixture.  Drain the bamboo shoots in the can, then add to the pan with the broccoli.  Cook, stirring frequently, until all ingredients are heated through and sauced.  Drizzle the sesame oil over the pan and stir well.

-HML

-JAY

Whoopie pies (in case you haven’t yet had the pleasure) are cake-like sandwich cookies with a buttercream-style filling.  I heard once that they’re named for the cheer that farmers would give when they discovered these treats in their packed lunches.  None of my colleagues shouted when I presented these, but I did get great reviews all around.

This recipe adapts the filling slightly into a marshmallow buttercream, which goes really nicely with the cake-like cookies and tastes quite a bit like an Oreo.  I like a bit more vanilla than most people in both elements of this dessert, so you can always reel that in a bit without harming the taste.

And considering the sheer amount of butter in this recipe, be sure to make them for a crowd!

Ingredients

Cookies

3 ½ cups flour

1 tsp salt (table salt, not kosher here)

1 ½ cups cocoa powder

1 tbsp baking soda

1 tsp baking powder

2 sticks butter at room temperature

2 cups granulated sugar

2 cups buttermilk at room temperature

1 tbsp vanilla extract 

Filling

2 sticks butter at room temperature

2 cups confectioner’s sugar

7 ½ oz marshmallow fluff (Kraft’s Marshmallow Kreme worked for me here in)

1 tbsp vanilla extract

Directions

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees.  Whisk together the flour, salt, cocoa powder, baking soda and baking powder, then set aside.  Prepare two baking sheets – you’ll need either silicone baking mats or parchment paper on each one.

Cream together the butter and sugar in your mixer on medium or medium-high speed until lightened in color and fluffy, maybe three minutes.  Beat in the eggs, one at a time, and make sure that each is fully incorporated before adding the next.  Blend in the buttermilk and vanilla extract, then add the dry ingredients, but only mix the dry ingredients until combined.  (You may need to scrape the mixing bowl, especially on the bottom, to ensure that the batter fully incorporated the cocoa powder).

Using a disher or scoop, drop the batter in 1-oz portions onto the baking sheets.  You should be able to fit 12 per pan, but make sure they have enough room to spread out.  Bake for 12 minutes, then allow to cool for 5-10 minutes before transferring to a cooling rack.  (You may not have quite enough batter for all 24 filled cookies if you’ve been generous with your disher; I ended up with 22).

For the filling, beat the butter in your mixer for a couple of minutes until smooth, then add the confectioner’s sugar.  Be careful at this step, as the powdered sugar will easily fly out of the bowl if you start the mixer too quickly.  Once combined, beat in the marshmallow fluff and the vanilla and continue mixing for a couple of more minutes until fluffy.

Match cookies up by size, then fill by spooning (or piping with a pastry bag) the filling onto the center of one cookie at a time.  Press together to spread the filling evenly.

Enjoy!

-HML

However, before I unleash the power of the vanilla bean upon you, I should inform you that the vanilla beans Mr. Nicholls from Cook’s gave to me were colossal.  They were plump and fragrant and beautiful.  Nothing like what you may come across in your grocer’s aisle, a thin stalk folded into thirds and stuffed in a jar.  Cook’s premium vanilla beans may be procured from Bayou Bakery, Cork Market, Palena Market, Black Salt Market, Butcher’s Block, Central Coffee Roasters (Sperryville, VA) and Home Farm Store (Middleburg, VA).  Their website is located here.

For those of you who don’t know, vanilla beans are gleaned from vanilla orchids and the species originated in Mexico.  These days the primary sources of beans are the Madagascar and Tahitian varieties of the same orchids.  Each flower has to be hand pollinated, and once the pods are harvested, they must be dried and cured for around six months to fully develop the flavor.  The process of producing vanilla beans remains very labor-intensive, keeping prices on the beans high.  However, do not settle for imitation.  Once you taste the complex flavor of a real vanilla bean, nothing else will do.  Each recipe title is a clickable link, except the cocktails.  And now, onto the recipes:

1.  Vanilla Pork Chops – I never would have guessed that vanilla and pork chops would go together so well, but they do.  If you’re a fan of pork chops or vanilla, this recipe (courtesy of the Washington Post) is a must-try.  I did not use my grill, but the broiler does just fine during the winter.

2.  Scallops with Champagne-Vanilla Butter Sauce – I love Emeril.  His sauce is a bit of a challenge, but a little patience goes a long way.  Again, I was surprised at how well the vanilla and scallops went with each other.  I would suggest that a nice white fish fillet would do equally well in this sauce.

3.  Salmon with Citrus Emulsion – This dish was incredibly flavorful.  Once again, the sauce takes a little more effort than usual to complete, but it is worth the few extra minutes.  I’d recommend serving this fish entrée with buttery mashed potatoes and sautéed green beans to wow your dining companions.

4.  Vanilla Bean-Champagne Cocktail – This drink was one of Mr. Nicholls’ suggestions, and it’s impressive.  Fill each of four flutes about three-quarters of the way with champagne and add ½ ounce of your favorite vanilla liqueur per glass.  I split two vanilla beans lengthwise, and used one half in each flute as the garnish.  It’s a great cocktail to serve when you want to have an elegant evening.  One other cocktail Mr. Nicholls asked me to try was a Cuba Libre with the addition of the seeds from half a vanilla bean.  It was very good, and the kind of drink you’d want to encounter at a local bar as one of the special house drinks.

5.  Curried Duck with Vanilla – I ended up using chicken thighs instead of duck legs for this recipe, but I was seriously impressed by how deliciously the vanilla and curry went together.  I ended up using different vegetables, but I kept the spices the same.  Though I was slightly worried about the vanilla overwhelming the dish (it smelled amazing), the taste of the vanilla ended up more subtle and complimentary to the curry.  For anyone who may be afraid to incorporate vanilla into savory entrees, try this dish first!  You’ll be very glad you did.

-TKW

Disclosure: From time to time, we are given free items (like vanilla beans), meals, or events.

This month’s hosts are two of my favorite local food writers, the equally lovely Lauren DiSantis of Capital Cooking (TV show/book/blog) and JC Gibbs of Little Lady Cook. The happy hour will be Wednesday February 1st at 6pm at Eatonville.

-JAY

-JAY

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Two small kegs had been set up around the corner from hostess station, and Capitol City had two new casks of seasonal beers to taste.  I grabbed a small glass of each and tasted the Lil’ Black IPA first.  IPA means India Pale Ale, for those not acquainted with the term.  Capitol City intended to make a more drinkable version of their Black IPA, thus Lil’ Black was born.  Lil’ Black was a hazy bark-brown color in the glass with a thin head.  I detected a scent similar to a green berry, but not unpleasantly so.  The sharp bouquet primed my mouth for the taste.  Lil’ Black was very hoppy.  The clean and bitter flavor from the hops turned out to be the cause of the sharp scent.  The beer also had a hoppy finish; I image fans of their Black IPA would enjoy Lil’ Black, as would those who enjoy more hops than malt in their beer.

The second beer up for sampling was the Waffle Brown Ale.  The beer was a clear, dark brown in the glass with a thick and foamy head.  The bouquet reminded me of sun-warmed hay, and a subtle maple scent wafted underneath.  Waffle Brown was smooth going down and left a finish of very light maple in my mouth.  I enjoyed this beer immensely and would recommend it to anyone.  Capitol City quipped that it was like breakfast in a glass, and I have to agree.

The appetizers offered to go with the beers were simple, but tasty.  Capitol City’s famous mini turkey corn dogs were up for grabs, though their signature horseradish was mysteriously absent.  The corn dogs were delicious, and I never would have guessed they were made from turkey.  The tortilla chips set out were alright, but the pico de gallo that served as a salsa was made fresh in the restaurant.  I enjoyed it very much because the ingredients were in balance; frequently, I find that people seem to think that cilantro is the main ingredient.  Lastly, some small pirogues occupied the space next to the corn dogs.  Inside the slightly chewy crusts was whipped potato perfection with some kind of cheesy goodness.  They were not on the house menu, but I strongly to Capitol City that they add them immediately.  Yes, they were that good.

-TKW

Disclosure: From time to time, we are given free items, meals, or events.

• Bonnat Xoconuzco  Madecasse 67% Bar
• Madecasse 80% Bar
• Valrhona Palmira Bar
• Valrhona Jivar Pecan
• Pralus Caracas Bar
• Michel Cluizel Vila Gracinda
• Eclat Pretzel Bar
• Patric Dark Milk Bar
• Patric Rio Caribe Bar
• Askinosie White Nib Bar
• Guittard Quevedo Bar

Future sample days are scheduled for 3pm on February 18th, March 17th, and April 21st.

-JAY

Ceder Plank Grilled Salmon/Scallops Pic Courtesy of Napoleon Grills.

Napoleon® Fireplaces and Grills sent us some interesting stats on grilling (by gender). The referenced study confirms men most often take up the tongs when it comes to grilled meals. They have some great looking recipes here.

-JAY

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Males continues to reign in the fiery realm of the grill, according to a new report studying the barbecue habits of North Americans.

The 2011 consumer research study, put together for the international Hearth, Patio and Barbecue Association, found that the male head of the household is more often the one who makes the decision to use a grill, prepares the food and actually does the work on the grill.

Grilled Shiraz Ribs Pic Courtesy of Napoleon Grills.

“Grilling has traditionally been a guy thing, and this research confirms the anecdotal evidence many of us have seen in our own homes for years,” said David Coulson, national advertising manager for Barrie, Ont.-based Napoleon Fireplaces and Grills. “Having said that, the study shows there are also a lot of households out there where both spouses are content to share the tongs.”

The online survey, conducted this past summer, looked at the way people in Canada and the United States typically use gas, electric and charcoal grills to prepare meals, as well as what features they’re looking for when they buy them.

Among the details provided by survey respondents, researchers found:

Males handle the majority of the grilling duty

Mango BBQ Quail Pic Courtsey of Napoleon Grills.

·         The survey indicates the male head of the household cooks about 73% of the meals on gas grills, 72% on charcoal grills and 66% on electric grills.

·        Women account for 24% of the cooking on gas grills, 22% on charcoal grills and 32% with electric grills.

Breaking down food prep

·         While most men like to be hands on at the grill, a smaller number of them share a hand in the food preparation. The survey found men prepare the food 58% of the time for gas grilling, 55% for charcoal grills and 50% for electric grills.

·         Those stats compare to women who handle food prep 39% of the time for gas grilling, 40% for charcoal grills and 49% for meals made on electric grills.

The will to grill

·         Men generally make the final call when it comes to whether or not to grill a meal. The survey indicates men typically make the decision 60% of the time for gas grilling, 63% of the time for charcoal grilling and 56% of the time for electric grills.

·         Women make the call 36% of the time for gas grilling, 33% of the time for charcoal grilling and 43% of the time for electric grilling.

Where’s the fire?

·         No matter who actually exercises their grill skills to cook the meal, the job of firing up the equipment usually falls to the man of the house, the survey found. Men said they light gas grills 78% of the time compared to 20% for women. Men ignite charcoal grills 77% of the time, compared to 18% for women.

“It’s extremely important for us to know how people typically use their grills and barbecues so we can tailor our products and services to our customers habits,” Coulson said. “At Napoleon, we have a full line of gourmet gas and charcoal grills to suit any household, no matter who’s at the helm.”