• 26Jan

    It has taken me way too long to write this review, and the reason is actually pretty simple: I didn’t want to. I read the book, and cookprepared many of the dishes within it months ago (and again since), and the whole time, I just keep thinking about how my parents always told me that ‘if you can’t say something nice’ … what the hell can I say about this?

    rqd

    “Raw Quick & Delicious” is a pretty book, and I learned a few things and got some good ideas.

    However, it advertises “5-ingredient recipes in just 15 minutes” (it’s right there on the cover), but you don’t get the (major) caveat until you start reading – you learn that many of these “5-ingredient” recipes actually contain one or more ingredients (e.g., nut milk, cashew “cheese”), which you are expected to have prepared ahead of time. Some of which take a lot of time. Further, many also require rather specialized equipment, like a juicer or high-powered blender. So, on just the book’s cover we discover two fairly glowing misrepresentations.

    Then we look inside. On page 10 (really only the third page of actual content), we come to a paragraph about enzymes, and how cooking food breaks these down and makes it less nutritious. This statement is bunk. For starters, there is little to no (actual scientific) evidence that any food enzymes even get past the stomach in the first place,* and I can find none whatsoever that they have any impact on the nutritional value of food. In fact, there actually is evidence that cooking food was a key inflection point in human evolution by allowing us to get *more* nutrition out of food to develop our big brains.**

    So, let’s move past the pseudoscience, even though it does in fact pervade the entire book, and get to the meat … err … vegetables. I love vegetables, and as all our readers know, I do a lot of vegan cooking; even after all that, I was looking forward to learning some new recipes (and techniques) for making delicious dishes.

    I don’t own a high-powered food processor, and haven’t got the time or inclination to do my own sprouting or making nut cheese (real, cheese-cheese, is available and bloody delicious), so I started simple: the Fresh Herb Toss (page 105). As directed, I tossed the herbs (cilantro, basil, parsley) with olive oil and lemon juice, plus salt, and served. It was tasty and refreshing, but a bit bland. I added some cayenne pepper and diced cucumber (see? still raw!), which I found greatly improved the dish.

    I also made (and enjoyed) the Spicy Pear and Cabbage Salad (page 119). I served it with a steak, and was quite pleased (and this is one that really only takes a few minutes to make!). Ditto with some of the other slaws on the following pages, though I did consistently find the recipes (as written) lacked a certain depth, and often added things like cayenne or red onion to fill that gap. The Sweet and Sour Kale (page 179) was a particular offender here, but much improved with the addition of (raw) garlic and onion.

    Now we get to the section on “Pasta and Noodles,” which of course contains neither.*** The most memorable of these, for me, was the Celery Root Ravioli (p. 147). This is a lot of work, even with a good mandoline, and took me more than 15 minutes. In the end, the filling is a bit bland but has a nice texture, and the ‘ravioli’ really don’t hold together very well. After a few attempts, I tossed it all in the blender and used it to fill real (pasta) ravioli, which I boiled and sautéed in butter, and which were actually really good.

    Before closing, I must note that 40 pages (21% of the 189 recipe pages) of this book contain recipes for smoothies and juices, which, while possibly delicious, do not meet my criteria for meals. I am not an infant, I like to chew my food. Then there’s the further 15 pages of dressings, and various recipes for nut milk, jam, etc. I may make some of these to use as garnishes or put them on salad, but that’s a lot of real estate for garnishes.

    All told, “Raw Quick & Delicious” contains some very nice starter recipes, but the dishes are generally a bit bland, and require way more work than advertised. I learned a few things, got a ton of practice on my mandoline skills, and have some good ideas to apply elsewhere (the ravioli, above). If you’re committed to the raw diet thing, there are plenty of things here that, with a (sometimes large) bit of tweaking, are quite good. Demerits, however, must be given for all the maddening pseudoscience peppered throughout (while pepper was often missing as an ingredient, see what I did there?), and the complexity in a ‘simple’ cover, so I have to give this book a C. I’ll stick to cooking (and real cheese!).

     – MAW

    *  Remember all that acid digestion stuff? Yeah, acid denatures the hell out of proteins – which reminds me of the following statement in the same paragraph: “Our bodies produce enzymes too – substances, usually proteins, that help digest food.” Are you kidding me?! *All* enzymes are proteins. All of them (OK, there’s some very recent evidence that a few amine macromolecules might act as enzymes and are (very) technically not proteins). *Some* of them help digest food. Others do things like facilitate metabolism, facilitate DNA transcription, etc. Anyways, this sort of pseudoscience presented as fact just makes me furious****.

    **  Which we now use to create reality television and fad diets, but oh well.

    ***  An aside to fad diet developers: if your food stands on its own, you don’t need to try so hard to force it in to another mold: vegetables are delicious on their own, and they do not need to pretend to be burgers, pasta, or meatballs. They never will be, and the simulacrum will always be disappointing.

    ****  Almost as furious as the improper use of “that” in the quoted sentence.

  • 04Jun

    200-Best-Ice-Pop-RecipesI tried out a few recipes from 200 Best Ice Pop Recipes by Andrew Chase:

    1. Pineapple Sage Ice Pops contain water, granulated (white) sugar, fresh sage leaves, salt, and a pineapple. You make a simple syrup with the water, sugar, and sage on the stove top and then add to to the pineapple which you puree in a blender. I had a very sweet pineapple on hand, so reduced the amount of granulated sugar in this recipe. These pops were delicious, The sage added an earthy herbal flavor to the pops without overpowering the pineapple. I will make them again.
    2. Strawberry Lime Ice Pops contain dark brown sugar (I used light brown sugar), lime zest and juice, and strawberries. I used fresh strawberries that were purchased as seconds from the Kingstowne Farmer’s Market stand that covers the individual containers with red protective nets. (The stand in question is the last one on the right if you walk towards the popcorn vendor.) These pops were tart, sweet, and extremely tasty, and I will make them again.
    3. Watermelon Punch Ice Pops contain seedless watermelon, grenadine syrup, and lemon juice. These pops were supposed to be the last recipe I made from this book but I did not like how they turned out, and decided to give the book another chance. The grenadine syrup separated from the watermelon, and the pops did not taste good regardless. More lemon juice might have helped, if the grenadine syrup and watermelon had not separated. I followed this recipe precisely.
    4. Sweet Screwdriver Ice Pops contain granulated (white) sugar, water, orange zest, orange juice, vodka, and orange liqueur. I tried this recipe figuring that regardless of it containing alcohol (which could affect the freezing process) that it was going to come out well. Turns out that even though I followed the recipe precisely, the pops did not completely freeze (a major problem). The pops did taste good but were soft and crumbly.

    This book has some interesting recipes, and includes the following sections: Read the rest of this entry »

  • 31Jul

    As a professional chef, I don’t get the time to go out and experience my colleagues’ restaurants, as I’m usually too busy working at my own.  A few weeks ago, I finally got the chance to check out Bryan Voltaggio’s signature restaurant Volt in Frederick, Maryland.  Ever since his turn on Top Chef, it has been very difficult to get a seat in his place, especially in the chef’s kitchen, where my wife decided we should be to celebrate my birthday.  What follows is a brief trip through the tasting menu that we had, and some commentary on the various dishes.  Throught the meal, Voltaggio integrated his farm-to-table philosophy with some of the molecular gastronomy tricks he picked up during his stint on Top Chef (mostly from his brother Michael).

    Bryan Voltaggio

    Bryan Voltaggio at work in his kitchen

    When we first were seated, my wife and I each ordered a cocktail (hey, what’s worth doing is worth doing right).  She ordered the Greenbrier (smooth ambler gin, cucumber, mint, lime and lavender), and I bypassed my usual Manhattan for the Gingered Blossom (Hangar One mandarin vodka, lemon juice, cranberry and ginger).  Both cocktails were the perfect remedy to the 185 degree furnace outside, and were a little too smooth and drinkable.  I was seriously about to order another one, when the circus began.

    We were presented with two potential tasting menus – one that focused on proteins, and one that focused on fresh, seasonal, locally grown vegetables.  Both of us opted for the protein menu, but the vegetable menu certainly looked appetizing.  I’ll try that the next time I’m up in town.  Before our courses started, the evil geniuses in the kitchen decided to send some canapés to the table.  The first canapé was a black pepper and pineapple lollipop (frozen with liquid nitrogen), served with a marshmallow and some balsamic vinegar.  While this does not sound like anything I would ever put together, it all worked very well, and was the perfect opening.

    Trio of canapés

    Trio of canapés

    The next plate that came out had three different canapés.  They were (left to right), an “oyster” that was actually made of salsify, gazpacho “dippin’ dots” topped with a lobster ceviche salad, and a celeriac macaron with foie gras mousse (best canapé ever, by the way).  All this was great, and everything paired together fairly well.  There was a big plume of “smoke” from the liquid nitrogen tank in the kitchen, and we started chatting with the people at the table next to us.  Then the fun really began when the waiter arrived with our first course.

     

    Our first course was a sashimi of Fluke served with cucumber flowers, yellow doll watermelon, radish, ginger and garlic scapes.  Very light, fresh, acidic and it paired perfectly with the non-vintage Murai family Sugidama sake.  More restaurants should have dishes like this.

    Buckwheat Gnocchetti

    Buckwheat Gnocchetti

    The second course was a bowl of buckwheat gnocchetti, served with house-smoked bacon, foraged herbs and flowers, and porcini and morel mushrooms.  This was easily one of my two favorite courses.   It was rustic and simple, but very flavorful (I also love wild mushrooms).  Wine pairing: 2008 Domaine Antonin Guyon, Pinot Noir from Savigny Les Beaune in Burgundy, France.

     

    Third course was a mixture of fisherman’s daughter shrimp, served with almond milk “tapioca pearls” (again with that molecular gastronomy), oysters, and a parsley air.  This was the wife’s favorite dish.  Then again, she’s always been a sucker for seafood.  Wine pairing: 2009 Fleuron Chardonnay from the Alexander Valley in California (very well done, and not oaked to death like other California Chards).

    After this came a sous-vide squab with caramelized walla walla onion, collard greens, and groats served in a procini mushroom broth.  This was my other favorite dish.  Everything seemed perfectly paired.  This dish was paired with a 2007 Fonterutoli Sangiovese Chianti Classico from Tuscany, Italy.  It brought back fond memories from my own trip there a couple years ago.

    Pineland Farms New York Strip

    Pineland Farms New York Strip

    For the fifth course, we had pineland farms New York strip with morel mushrooms, garlic scapes, creamed spinach Yukon Gold Potato Puree and fava beans.  No, it did not go with a nice Chianti, it went with a 2007 Emilio Moro tempranillo from Ribera del Duero in Spain.

    A blood orange, fennel, and dark chocolate sorbetto course came out for me since it was my birthday, and it was quite good, but I didn’t realize that wasn’t the dessert course.  The actual dessert course was a demonstration of the various textures of chocolate, which consisted of ganache, chocolate caramel, pistachios, and raw organic cocoa.  This was paired with a 2004 late bottle vintage Ramos Pinto port, which was quite sublime, and it went very well with the richness of the chocolate.

    Overall, one of the best dinners I’ve had in the D.C. area.  Someone better call the postal authorities, though, because I have a feeling I’ll need my own ZIP code soon.  Generally speaking, I’ve found a lot of the places in DC to be pretty overrated, and while they have good food overall, they’re not really worth they hype.  This restaurant did a fantastic job, and the service was impeccable (although I was a bit put off that brown Chuck Taylors are part of the uniform for all non-kitchen staff).  I will definitely go back again, because all things considered, the price tag on this meal was much cheaper than I thought it would be.  Well done, Mr. Voltaggio, I may even try the vegetable menu next time.

    -YDB (Yaneev)

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