• 12Jul

    flourless.jpgThis entry was written by new contributor CZ
    Mark and Orlando’s is very similar in atmosphere and layout to Komi, if you’ve ever been there. It’s a converted flat with exposed brick, simply decorated with an open window to the kitchen in the back where Orlando stands and keeps an eye on the floor. It’s unpretentious and very comfortable. I will say it was a bit confusing when you walk in because there is no host/hostess stand. You walk into the bottom of the stairs and you can either go straight into the dining room, or upstairs. Luckily, one of the waiters saw us from the bar and told us to come on in.
    The menu was extremely diverse, but simple. There weren’t an overwhelming number of choices, but it had something for everyone. One thing I did notice, however, was that there weren’t any of what I call “standards,” things like NY strip teak with Bearnaise or sesame-encrusted tuna with wasabi-mashed potatoes. So if you are someone who is expecting something like that, you will be disappointed.


    So for starters, we had:
    Roast tomato stuffed with creme fraiche and roasted garlic: I was quite shocked by this. I was expecting something rather soft and mushy, but I was completely wrong. It’s roasted just barely enough to remove the skin and cored. It’s then filled with a mix of creme fraiche and roasted garlic and topped with sprigs of some peppery green which I suspect is young watercress. The garlic just barely flavored the creme fraiche, and mixed with the tomato and watercress was a perfect match. The greens provided the little bit of sharp flavor to counterpoint the creme and the soft, yet firm texture of the tomato.
    Roasted Beet Salad with Goat Cheese and Walnuts: My companion had this so I only had a bite of it. But she thoroughly enjoyed it and I really liked the bite that I got. The goat cheese wasn’t too overpowering and the beets weren’t overly soft or hard. A nice combination of flavors and textures that really complemented each other well.
    For the entrees:
    Rack of Veal with swiss chard and warm peaches: Bottom line up front, this was the best veal I’ve ever had. No lie. It was the equivalent of the rib-eye served on the bone, but much smaller. It was grilled to a perfect medium-rare and was very juicy and tender. There was a hint of smoke from the grilling and its simplicity is what really made it for me. It was served with warm sliced peaches which, even though they were somewhat sauteed, you could tell were fresh. The chard was ok. I’ll be honest, I’m not a big fan of chard, but cooked in stock and garlic as this was, it was really good. My only slight criticism would be that you couldn’t taste the actual chard, but only what it was cooked in. Still, hardly a legitimate complaint as I ate it up quickly and wish I had more.
    Rack of Pork Stuffed with Apple, Pancetta, Bleu Cheese with rosemary jus and pearl onions: When I think rack, I think more than one bone, but again, this pork was just one chop served on the bone. The pancetta was in a small dice with the apples and just a touch of bleu cheese was stuffed inside the chop. The pancetta and the apples were cooked perfectly and the bleu cheese was not overpowering making this entree really delicious.
    Finally, for dessert:
    Chocolate flourless cake: I’m not a really big fan of chocolate, to be honest. I do enjoy it from time to time, but it’s not something I seek out regularly. I do, however, quite like a bit of chocolate at the end of a good meal, and this cake did not disappoint. It wasn’t TOO rich or heavy like others I’ve had, and it was served warm with a somewhat gooey center. It was the perfect size served with a sprinkling of powdered sugar and a small scoop of passion fruit sorbet. This is something that I would definitely go back to have again.
    Peach Tart Tatin: I was too wrapped up in my chocolate cake to really concentrate on this one, but the one bite I did have was very good. The pastry was light and flaky, not too buttery, and the peach was obviously very fresh. They didn’t bake the hell (and natural flavor and texture) out of it.
    One final note are the four bread spreads that they put in front of us:
    ~ Puree of parsnips
    ~ Whipped butter
    ~ Puree of sweet potato
    ~ Whole grain mustard
    Served with pieces of toasted baguette, it was a nice departure from the standard butter/olive oil. I think the different purees were mostly unadulterated letting the actual flavor of the parsnips and sweet potato come through. They were served in a four-candle votive holder lending to an interesting presentation.
    I really liked this place and look forward to going back again. I’d recommend this place as having something for just about anyone.
    Mark & Orlando’s
    2020 P St. NW
    Washington, DC 20036
    202/223-8463

3 Responses

  • We’ll have to wait for CZ to weigh in for sure, but the listings I’ve seen have ranked it as “Expensive”, with lunch ranging $9-13 and dinner entrees averaging about $20. Thanks for noting the omission.

  • Oh sorry… I totally left that out. Total bill for the evening was $95 before tip including two glasses of wine.

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