Chef Peter Prime

Old Engine 12 Restaurant is the creation of Chef Peter Prime, a native Trinidadian, who in 2013 decided to renovate the firehouse of Engine Company 12 in Bloomingdale to launch his world class contemporary American restaurant. Originally constructed in 1895, it is noted for its artistic architectural design. Chef Peter, as he is more commonly known, transformed this magnificent architectural gem into a space where guests walk in and are instantly embraced by its history and elegance.  From the exposed brick walls, to the extensive original oak moldings, to the brass fireman’s pole to the captain’s loft – the legacy of generations of firemen who served here has been beautifully preserved.

Chef Peter is classically trained, having attended the French Culinary Institute in New York.  His professional experience includes highly respected DC venues such as Leopold Kafe and Konditerei in Georgetown, Citronelle, Hotel Monaco’s Poste Moderne Brasserie and Todd Gray’s Equinox.  The menu at Engine 12 is a culmination of Chef Peter’s varied and extensive culinary lineage that began with time spent in his mother’s Trinidadian family kitchen and the influences that bestows.

In speaking with this wonderfully creative chef, he expressed that Engine 12 reflects his desire to create a neighborhood nook where people gather to eat, drink and be entertained.  This fall, Engine 12 kicks off 2^nd Sunday Family Dinners to honor a long standing firehouse tradition where firefighters come together for a good meal, full of laughs, bonding and conversation. The Sunday Family Dinners encourage neighbors and friends to gather for family style meals that are inspired by staff members, neighbors and some of Chef Peter’s childhood nostalgia!  These promise to be wonderful warm and friendly events and an excellent addition to the social fabric of Bloomingdale and Eckington.

A nostalgic nod to the venue’s former life as the Engine 12 firehouse

For this review, I had the privilege of attending a preview dinner of Engine 12’s new fall menu items. Chef Peter graced us with an array of expertly crafted dishes over 5 courses, each accompanied by one of Engine 12’s signature craft cocktails. The entire evening was delightful and quite impressive in its execution, in the creativity of his culinary talent, and in the romance and charm of the experience of being in this historical DC architectural gem.  All of the menu items aim to offer a creative take on the notion of comfort food. And after experiencing them, I walked away with a new definition of what it means to eat comfort food – familiar ingredients with exciting new yet subtle flavors and a warmth that makes you want to just curl up in front of a fireplace and enjoy a classic after dinner digestif.

THE HORS D’OEUVRES

The evening opened up in the Main Dining Room (the area open to the public) with servings of Sweet Potato Chips and Jerked Chicken Wings.  The Sweet Potato Chips were served with a Jalapeño Mayo that was quite amazing in its execution.  I say amazing because never before have I tasted a dish or condiment of any kind that had jalapeño peppers where the flavor of the pepper came through elegantly and the heat was but a subtle undercurrent.  The Jerked Chicken reflects Chef Peter’s Caribbean upbringing and again the heat was subtle and the wings were flavorful in a very balanced and nuanced way.

THE VEGETABLE/SALAD COURSE

The Main Bar area with the brass fire pole prominently displayed

After such a delightful introduction to Engine 12, we moved upstairs to the ballroom space (where private and special Engine 12 events are held).  Generous in size, encircled in exposed brick walls, and paved in original wood plank flooring, one immediately felt at home and could begin to envisage holding a private family event here.  The meal continued at this point with a trio of vegetable plates. First up were Grilled Brussels Sprouts drizzled with a sweet yet zesty balsamic molasses glaze. Next were Mini Roasted Potatoes prepared with beef fat and sprinkled with crunchy salt and chive gremolata. Third was a refreshing Kale Salad that incorporated dried cranberries, toasted almonds, parmesan and was sprinkled with a Balsamic Gastrique.  The Brussels sprouts were roasted to perfection and the addition of whiskey braised raisins added a wonderful subtle spiciness that had me elevating my desire for Brussels sprouts – Brussels sprouts were that one thing as kids we all absolutely turned our noses up at! The delicate nature of the baby kale made for a crisp and fresh salad completely absent of some of kale’s known bitterness.

FIRST PLATES COURSE

Next were two of Chef Peter’s unique inventions.  His Sweet Potato Caramello, a house made raviolo filled with a heavenly blend of sweet potato and ricotta, was dressed with an almond sage cream and topped with a tempura fried sage leaf.  The natural sweetness of the ingredients in this dish was sublime – just the right touch on the palette that blended well with its more savory notes.  The sage leaf was a beautiful surprise!  This was followed by Coffee Butter Scallops seared just right, allowing the natural sweetness of a high quality scallop to dance nicely with the nutmeg flavored cauliflower purée that served as the bed in which the scallop rested. I could’ve repeated this course several times over it was so great!

SECOND PLATES COURSE

The presentation thus far was a very smooth flow of well-balanced dishes that left the diner delighted and well comforted. We still had room for more, and more came in the form of two very flavorful meat dishes that had sides for which one would absolutely die.  The Jerk Spiced Duroc Pork Chop recalled Chef Peter’s Trinidadian roots and much like the Jerked Chicken Wings, fresh in flavor and subtle in heat. The pork sat in two streams of sweet potato – one a sweet potato pudding, the other a purple sweet potato caramel.  Everyone just smiled when they got to the purple caramel – I’ve never tasted a sweet potato so delicious! Chef Peter likes to do his own smoking on the premises and his skill in this area was presented to us in the form of Smokey Brisket, a dish so tender and a smoky flavor that had me recalling barbecues of my childhood.  Accompanied by Brown Butter Mashed Potatoes and Spicy Broccoli Rabe, it was a very satisfying end to the savory portion of this incredible meal!

DESSERT COURSE

Captain’s Loft

After being nicely sated with such a surprising meal, we were escorted to the Firehouse Lounge on the third floor – a very cozy candlelit lounge space filled with soft leather sofas and chairs that is quite relaxing in atmosphere.   We were treated to Zeppole, an Italian fried dough recipe accompanied with homemade caramel, chocolate and raspberry sauces for dipping.  Akin to what we know as donut holes, these were much lighter and more delicate.  Having grown up in a southern Italian immigrant family, I have been consuming zeppoles since I was a toddler, but the variety known to me is much more dense (we use regular bread dough) and sweet sauces are but one option for us (as another option we stuff ours with anchovies for a saltier more savory bite). There are many varieties of zeppoles in existence throughout Italy.  Chef Peter’s variety reflected a great understanding of this dish of many traits! I was quite happy at the end to be transported to memories of my childhood Christmases with my big fat Italian family where abundant platefuls of zeppoles were served at every meal at every house visit.

HOME CRAFTED COCKTAILS

Engine 12 completely won me over with its new fall menu items. But the icing on the cake was the house made cocktails.  All of them make superb signature drinks sure to please patrons of all types.  The Sweet Potato Pye, made with Rittenhouse Rye, sweet potato pudding and spiced brown sugar simple syrup was beautifully smooth, and again, subtle in sweetness.  The uniqueness of the sweet potato pudding was a delight – one expected it to be very heavy, but it was quite light in its composure and kept in theme with the extensive use of sweet potato throughout the evening. The Dirty is a unique style of martini that used Stoli Elite vodka and house-smoked olive brine. The subtlety of the smoked brine was amazing!  The smokiness of this drink was unmatched by anything I have imbibed.  Lastly, the Hydrant #12 was a very refreshing blend of Sapphire Gin, Mint, Cucumber, simple syrup , lime juice and lemonade.  Can I have another please?

With the redevelopment of the Bloomingdale  and Eckington neighborhoods in full force, the push to bring in new businesses along North Capitol Street is off to a very good start and Engine 12 is leading the charge by bringing first class dining in a comfortable atmosphere that brings together friends, family, neighbors and staff in a nostalgic way.  Chef Peter is a talent to be watched.  He is true to his craft and has devoted a wonderful amount of energy to pulling together his rich background of culinary experiences in very thoughtful and creative ways.  I can’t wait to start attending the Sunday Family Dinners.  I have it on authority that Chef Peter’s Mom will be not only attending, but preparing some of the dishes herself – that for me warms my heart to the fullest.

A visit is a must for any foodie living here in the DC area.

-SAW (Steve)