• 12Apr

    I recently went on a wine tour through Virginia.  Gray Ghost here and Rappahannock Cellars there.  (P.S.  the pourer at Rappahannock is against health care reform – hello Virginia – I almost spit out my Norton…almost.)  My binge journey through the Rappahannock Valley, which I heartily suggest you take as it’s only two hours away, was awakened by a new, and unique, winery of choice.  Narmada.

    Narmada is new.  It’s most fun attribute, without sounding like the newest installment of Sassy Gay Friend, is that it is owned by an Indian family.  Having planted a few years ago, the wine has finally come of age.  Apparently, however, the chicken tikka masala hasn’t.

    They serve food.  Yes, a winery that serves food.  It’s smart, and god bless someone for coming up with the idea.  But the masala, hello, cardboard.  You would think, simmer the chicken in the sauce all day.  Well, that isn’t the Narmada thinking.  But the wines are good.  And there was live music!  Oh, and did I mention there was food?!  Other wineries need to catch on to this craze.  A quick appetizer with your tasting can seal the deal.  We asked if the varietals planted were meant to compliment Indian foods but received a questionable, if not full no, response; a missed opportunity.

    Right now in my wine cellar, I have Midnight.  I also bought a shirt in their gift shop.  While it might seem a little kitschy, and the front door is oddly placed, it’s refreshing to see a completely new concept push in to the, errr, established Virginia winery scene.  The food has promise, I like the live music, and I like the grandmother and father sitting on the couch.  It’s a new atmosphere.  And every other winery we visited would mention Narmada and insist we go.  It was also packed with people – by far the most out of the six wineries we visited.  I wish them success as they continue to refine their menu and perfect their blends.

    AEK

  • 12Apr

    …Truth be told, this slightly Southern yank is pretty much just humming halfheartedly.

    San Francisco is famous for Chinese food (with the largest urban Chinese population outside the Middle Kingdom, it’d better be), so I was already excited about trying whatever it had to offer. When I learned of James Beard-award-winning dim sum, my interest was doubly piqued, and I was of course unable to resist.

    I headed to the Rincon Center location of Yank Sing around 11 AM on a Friday, just in time to grab a prime table before the lunchtime rush. Carts of food began to pass, and a server offered me the option of requesting specific items. He also brought a ginormous glass pot of tea ($2). Unusual in my experience, they actually have a printed menu. So, you can order on demand, which I did once or twice, and see items’ prices, which may help ease the end-of-meal sticker shock a bit…or, at least, preview it.

    I began with an old favorite – steamed shrimp dumplings. They were fabulous – light and fluffy and delicious. I then moved to the house specialty Shanghai pork dumplings, which were also really good: like bags of pork soup to be eaten in a spoon full of a vinegar sauce with what seemed like ginger. The shu mai were similarly delightful, and the chicken feet were really good – crispy, batter fried…chicken-footiness…with just enough cartilage crunch.

    The pork buns were very flavorful, but I found the bun itself dry, and the ratio of filling to bun a bit low. The fried taro dumplings were also a bit dry and too flaky for my taste (I’ve made these at home, and got about 30 for the price I paid here for not remarkably better quality). The lotus buns I had for dessert suffered similarly. The sticky rice was ok, but way too salty.

    All told, I’m not sure what happened. Yank Sing was supposed to be the ultimate, best, awesomest, etc., but what I had was just the most expensive. Was Friday the wrong day to go? Did I order the wrong stuff? The dumplings were bloody good, and the chicken feet…well, I don’t actually know how to judge them (as I’ve only had the dish a few times before), but they were just yummy. But dry bao and salt-drenched rice seem like pretty rookie mistakes. Sad.

    The servers were super nice, but too pushy on the expensive cart items and dessert. The other thing, of course, is that my bill was $40 – too much for lunch, even in San Francisco, and even though I stuffed myself stupid. Oh well.

    Yank Sing
    Rincon Center
    101 Spear St.
    San Francisco
    415.957.9300

    -MAW

  • 11Apr

    I’ve tried a new restaurant tonight – a kitchen bar .  And armed with both a kitchen and a bar, it lives up to the name stupendously.  (By the way, is kitchen bar the new phrase?)  The interior is great.  There is a bar on the first floor, swanky and hip, and there is a wonderful open space upstairs with another bar and a gorgeous exposed beam ceiling.  The lighting, to be real, is a little dim.  And they need some blinds on the windows asap.  There is a wonderful, large community table in the center of the space, and the party occupying it was moved because of the setting sun.

    The cocktails are good.  We tried everyone on the menu.  **Warning – they love ginger.  The Ginger Lime Martini has both ginger and lime, in excessive amounts.  While delicious, I may need an esophageal transplant after the lime juice, but in a Thai restaurant it would have been sublime.  The hit of the night was the 8407 Pimms, with an exceptional balance of lime, cucumber, and…ginger.  Delicious.  We ordered a few.  The Clementine tasted like a bathroom air freshener, but if you love a fruit/flower flavor, it’s meant for you.

    The food was hit or miss, or a little in between.  We started with the Pickled Potted Rabbit Truffle Rillette.  Pretty darn good (my partners favorite of the night), but the consistency was that of a white bean soup – not the most appetizing when you know you’re eating meat.  It was served with some toasted bread that over-powered the flavor of the rabbit, and some cumquats that over powered the toasted bread.  We also ordered sardines – fresh and tasty, but the bones were a tad much, and they were served with some golden raisins on the side.  I sit here, still wondering, what were those raisins for?  For the final first taste, french fries cooked in duck fat with rosemary.  Most definitely flavorful, but limp.  And I hate a limp fry!  But if flavor is your name, then this potato is your game.

    For our second round, we started with the sauteed greens in an apple cider gastrique.  Perhaps the best item of the evening, sweet and bitter.  The asparagus salad with poached egg and salad was a complete miss.  It came out luke warm and no body, and I mean no body, wants to eat cold, semi-solid egg whites.  Blah.  (As an aside, the table next to us ordered the same thing as was very displeased with the egg as well).  We ate one bite and gave the rest to Jesus.  The house burger, we ordered medium rare.  I’m a firm believer that if a restaurant can nail a hamburger, they can cook anything before them.  The burger, good, came out on the heavily rare side.  But, the good foodie I am, the rarer the better, and it was tasty.  The bacon on top was cooked well (still crisp) and the seeded bun helped add the perfect amount of salt to the dish.

    Overall, in my best Gael Greene voice, I give 8407 three-and-a-half stars.  There is room to improve but I had a delightful first impression.  The pieces are all present, and they need a slight nudge to get them into alignment – and being opened for only a few weeks, no doubt they will put the pieces together.  To be honest, we tasted none of the main entrees – and starting at $19 (up to $30), I’m happy to keep to the appetizer and sandwich menu for now.  A certain price scale requires a little reputation to run along side it.  But please, taste, eat, and enjoy.

    AEK

  • 05Apr

    Northside Social (by the Liberty Tavern people) is a coffeehouse with an upstairs a wine bar  in the old Murky/Common Grounds space in Clarendon.  They also sell fresh bread, and bags of Counter Culture coffee.

    I stopped by and tried a ginger cookie (which was very good).

    They have breakfast until 11am, soups, sandwiches, salads, and an evening menu after 4pm.  The pastries definitely looked good.  They also have Chocolate & port pairings (after 4pm), fondue tasting, and cupcake tasting.

    They are at 3211 Wilson Blvd., and really need to work on their webpage. 🙂

    -JAY

  • 01Apr

    I’m just running with this free event, but you can check for other (mostly not free) events on Linda Roth’s site here.

    -JAY

    ————

    Wednesday, April 14

    FREE LUNCH at Rōti’s DC Debut

    Make a donation to DCCK and Rōti for free

    Rōti Mediterranean Grill

    1747 Pennsylvania Ave, NW

    Washington, DC

    Time: 11:00am – 2:00pm

    www.roti.com

    Rōti Mediterranean Grill will celebrate the debut of its first Washington, DC location on Wednesday, April 14 by offering a FREE LUNCH for all, from 11:00am to 2:00pm at their 1747 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW location. In return, Rōti asks that you share in their spirit of generosity by making a donation to local charitable organization, DC Central Kitchen.

  • 29Mar

    The Inn at Little Washington, man, I don’t know.  Below I’ve laid out my Inn experience under three categories: 1) Food, 2) Service, and 3) Ambiance.  I remember growing up and always hearing about the Inn.  And I wonder, just wonder, if 10 years ago the Inn was hot because it was the best place to eat in the area, but as new restaurants move in and fine dining is just a metro stop away, if the Inn isn’t struggling to find its identity and its place in a burgeoning Washington, D.C. culinary scene.

    The food. We arrived early and ordered some drinks while we waited for our table.  We sat in the “living room” – a wonderfully cozy and sumptuous room with large pillows and quiet corners.  The drink?  A rosemary infused gin with champagne and other various pre-prohibition ingredients.  It was delicious.

    After being seated at our table, we opened our menus to find they were personalized.  A nice touch.  While perusing the menu we were given bread.  It would have been better if it was warm.  Maybe next time.  We ordered some more cocktails and then were given a plate of amuse bouche  – made with ingredients featured in many of the dishes on the menu.  They were wonderful!  A beet puree, a parmesan cream, a bite size lamb carpaccio, and a piece of black cod.  We drank, we ate bread, we tasted the bouches, and ate more bread.  They bread girl kept re-loading the bread dish.  Eventually, I had to say no more.  I didn’t come to the Inn for rolls.

    Our first dishes – a Big Eye tuna, avocado, and mango salad with a saki-yuzu sorbet and some Carpaccio of herb crusted baby lamb with Caesar Salad ice cream.  The tuna was good, but nothing I couldn’t find at a top-notch sushi restaurant in the city.  And, honestly, it probably would have been better elsewhere.  But the sorbet was tasty. The Carpaccio was flavorful and the Caesar Salad ice cream was inventive and interesting ­– the winner of the first course.  Both dishes are pictured above.

    For the second course, we ate macaroni and cheese and a homemade boudin blanc.   Both were tasty, if not awesome.  The mac and cheese consisted of nine ziti pieces covered in cheese with some black truffle grated on top.  A bit absurd I think, and trying a tad too much.  The boudin blanc was good.  But really, when is sausage ever bad?  Jimmy Dean is a millionaire for a reason!  During this course, we also popped open a Petit Verdot – still my fav of all time.

    For the mains, a delicious short rib and filet mignon combination and some medallions of rabbit.  The rabbit – dry…sec…can I get a glass of water over here?  It was the disappointment of the evening.  And it was wrapped in pancetta!  There was a collective sign of “ehhhh” heard from Washington, Virginia to Palermo, Sicily.  The beef two ways was fresh, succulent, and tasted of the quality we were expecting.

    Dessert…the Seven Deadly Sins – a little sampling of everything on the menu.  The vanilla panacotta and the molten lava cake were stupendous.  The rhubarb crumble, I could make.  And the vanilla and butter pecan ice cream should be illegal to make. Frozen ice.

    All in all, we were on a food roller coaster.  Some definite highs and some lowly lows (for a place of this mythological caliber)!  While mostly delicious, I don’t know if I’d go the distance for another try.  I’ve got The Source only a few miles away and their duck is worth the price of a metro ticket.

    The service.  Attentive.  Punctual.  On point.  Our personal server seemed aloof, chatting and laughing with other tables but serving us as if we were sitting in a Soviet-era pancake house.  The bread girl was very sweet.  And the water filling person deserves a raise.  And we’d like to give a shout out to the Ginger who walked the dining room like a ballerina with a mission.

    The ambiance. Take one part Grandma’s living room, one part Martha Stewart Living, and a healthy teaspoon of fine dinnerware, et voila,  you have the Inn.  It is what you’d envision the Mansion on O Street to look like… but then you see the yard sale.  It was both classy and comfortable.  The fringed lampshades worked, but barely.

    In the end, the Inn at Little Washington experience: it lived up to the expectation, but didn’t surpass it.

    AEK

  • 29Mar

    Michel creating the "smoked salmon croquet madames" he is about to hand us.

    I was fortunate to attend the “announcement party” at Central for Michel Richard’s new restaurant (tentatively named “Michel”) at the The Ritz-Carlton, Tysons Corner (in the old Maestro space).

    At the beginning of the event, I was (intentionally) positioned to watch Michel make some “small bites,” which he handed to the three of us.  At one point, Michel was in the corner of the room surrounded by his staff.  I wandered over into his tight group and started a conversation with him.  I’d never met Michel before and was very impressed with him because he is personable, passionate, and expressive and makes people immediately feel comfortable.  He is also funny: (spoken in a French accent) “I like cheeses that smell like my feet when my wife gives me foot rubs.”

    Half of the time my gaze kept being drawn back to their house made charcuterie–intensely red cured hams, and salamis sitting right in front of me on the meat slicers.  $22 for a charcuterie plate (from their lunch menu).

    I skipped the two mushroom dishes (due to an allergy) but one diner told me that a mushroom dish was the best thing she had that night.  Everything I had was tasty, but my favorite was the croquet madame, of which I had several; the cheese, black bread, and salmon in the teeny sandwiches were an amazing combination.  The deviled eggs were great but they did have (raw) meat in them! Yum! I tried the two red wines, and both were good but I preferred the tempranillo (the heavier wine).  Below is a list of what we were served.

    I HAD to take a picture of the charcuterie.

    Wines:

    Bailly Lapierre, Crémant De Bourgogne, Blanc de Blancs, France 2007 – (Chardonnay)

    Bourgogne Blanc, Michel Richard, Domaine Maillard, Burgundy, France 2007 – ( Chardonnay)

    Domaine Coteau De La Biche, Vouvray, Loire, France 2008 – (Chennin Blanc)

    Bodegas Muaurodos, Prima, Tora , Spain 2006 – (Tempranillo)

    Frederic Mabileau, St Nicolas de Bourgueil, Loire, France 2006 – (Cabernet Franc)

    Hors d’oeuvres:

    Mushroom croquet monsieur – duxelle of mushrooms, Swiss cheese, whole wheat bread

    Smoked salmon croquet madame – smoked salmon, Swiss cheese, black bread

    Gougeres (cheese puffs) – gruyere and parmesan cheese

    Mushroom Tarts – mushrooms and gruyere cheese

    Deviled steak & eggs – hard boiled eggs stuffed with beef tartar

    -JAY

  • 25Mar

    This weekend….The Inn at Little Washington…is it worth the hype?  I’ll be the judge of that!

    -AEK

  • 16Mar

    It was the worst winter DC had seen in years, and by late-February, this writer needed an extra helping of vitamin D…in the form of direct sunlight.  An opportune conference for my day job and a nonstop flight put me in Miami Beach the week of the Food Network South Beach Wine & Food Festival for the second time.  But I had no sightings of Flay, Morimoto, or Valladolid.  No supping it up with the muckity muck for me.  Tickets for the Festival events are pricey.  Still recovering from the worst economic downturn in my lifetime, I found myself pressed to the do the beach on the cheap.  Sure, I had an evening of people watching while dining outdoors at a Lincoln Road restaurant and another night at STK on the dime of gracious hosts, but for the most part, I was on my own and on a budget.

    The morning my conference began, I cried my sorrows into a remarkably good café con leche at Tropical Beach Café.  Located in an unassuming strip at 2891 Collins Avenue, north of South Beach hoopla, TBC is easy to overlook.  Never mind this hole-in-the-wall joint is not actually on the beach.  Don’t go to TBC for the ambience; go for eye-opening coffee and the stick-to-your-ribs breakfasts.  After consuming enough caffeine to think, I opted for the baby bistec with fried eggs.  I ordered the steak medium, but knew that it would come out on the well side regardless of what I said.  Don’t be fooled by the “baby” label.  Portions were substantial.  Breakfast included French fries and the best pan I had my whole time in Miami Beach.  All for about ten bucks.

    Note the service will just as likely greet you in Spanish as English, but feel free to answer and order in whichever of the two you are most comfortable.  Waitresses are attentive without hovering or rushing you out.  My waitress was impressed but not shocked when she cleared away my empty plates.  I topped it all off with a cortado (half espresso, half steamed milk).  Hours of seminars in windowless conference rooms require caffeine…and I had to get my vitamin D from somewhere.

    Tropical Beach Café, located at 2891 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, open all week from 8am-8pm, just a little too late to go straight from partying to pre-hangover breakfast.

    – CAF (Guest Blogger)

  • 15Mar

    Ok, ok, I know we’re no where near to the warm, swampy days of our D.C. summers, but something’s got me in the mood for heat and an infant Vinho Verde!  Perhaps it’s Porgy and Bess coming to the Kennedy Center, or maybe it’s the croci popping up around the neighborhood, or maybe – just maybe – it could be that I just bought a beach house.  That’s right food lovers of the metro region, I have my own little shanty on a lot of sand.  And now it’s time to eat myself gouty from the turf all the way over to the surf.

    Rehoboth Beach, my new second home,  has a surprising number of good restaurants.  And lord knows, I swear on Poseidon’s trident, you’re going to hear about them all.  Up first, Saketumi.  (**Warning: I have been here numerous times.)  Located on Route 1, this restaurant is about 5 minutes drive from the beach.  It’s a huge space with limited parking, that caters to everyone in Rehoboth – and if you’ve been, you know what I’m sayin’.  Gay or straight, young or old, sake or martini, there’s room for the whole family!  The service is quick and efficient and the space is comfortable and cool – whether a hipster or a grandma, or a grandma hipster, you’re going to find something aesthetically pleasing.

    The sushi is fresh, if not all too inventive.  Let’s be real, it’s no Tono.  But IT IS where I fell in love with the Lychee-tini.  And the dumplings are freakin’ awesome.  Order the duck and noodle soup.  It’s got baby bok choy, duck, and noodles, all simmering in a delicious broth.  You can get whole fish, fried in an oddly erotic position.  They have vegetarian meals and carnivore platters.  I know, I’m gushing a bit.  But it’s heart-warming to see a good restaurant open up outside of the predictable beach traffic.  And survive!

    We all love a carmel corn, and near or far Kohl’s Custard will always be in my heart, but sometimes it’s fun to walk off the boardwalk and and try something unexpected.  And you can always drive back to the waves and cool sand for a romantic beach wandering after dinner.  Try the Saketumi and, if you’re in the neighborhood, stop on by.  I’ll have my hose at the ready.

    AEK

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