We’ve all been there. You have a relationship, that ends, for better or worse, and for some reason you still wind up back with your old flame every so often. It’s hard to explain – you know it probably isn’t right, and that you may end up regretting it later, but yet there you are, doing it anyway. So it went this week with me.
I’ve lived in the D.C. area since 1999, and I had the fortune to leave the area for about a year and a half to complete culinary training at Le Cordon Bleu. You’d be surprised how much changes around here in that amount of time. It’s like a weird acid trip – everything is different, yet so much the same. Many restaurants that used to be some of my favourite places now just irritate me, and many places that I never gave the time of day to before, like an illicit romance, give me those familiar butterflies.
This week, I marked the passage of yet another year of irritating the hell out of people. For such an occasion, I decided it was time to revisit an old flame – 1789 Restaurant, in Georgetown. Now this really was a strange occurrence. On one hand, it was a fairly risky endeavour, as this has always been, bar none, one of my absolute favourite places in town. If things had changed for the worse, I would be crushed. On the other hand, I must admit I was fairly excited for one very good reason: this would be the first time I’ve tasted the food of the new(ish) executive chef there, Nathan Beauchamp.
On one hand, I have been a big fan of the last executive chef, Ris Lacoste. I actually know her professionally, and I’ve admired her work at Kinkead’s, and 15 ria. 15 ria was her first “solo gig” in this area and those people who ate there before she left to go to 1789 in 1995 remember how good that fare was. 15 ria pretty much tanked after she left, and I was very nervous that 1789 might suffer a similar fate, so it was with much trepidation that I approached the restaurant again.
My usual ritual at 1789 is to look over the entire menu, and then order the rack of lamb. Seriously, only once have I ever ordered anything else there (a filet mignon entrée), and while it was superb, you just can’t get lamb like that anywhere else in the D.C. area (that I know of, at least). For the most part, this signature entrée hasn’t changed much over the years, and I suspect that Nathan Beauchamp is aware of how popular it is. However, just as any band that covers another band’s music will attest, you have to put your own twist on it. This new menu would certainly pose a challenge – there were a number of new, seasonal entrées, that while fairly simple in construction, seemed truly appetizing.
After a good ten minutes looking over the menu, I decided to order a first course of a risotto, served with roasted corn, basil, chanterelle mushrooms, and finished off with summer black truffles. My fiancée ordered a chopped salad, which consisted of seasonal vegetables, anchovies, and was topped with a coddled egg. My entrée was, of course, the lamb. The rack was wrapped (and thus encrusted) in pancetta, and served with a goat cheese potato mousseline, escarole, and an olive jus. As much as I loved Ris’s version, I must admit, this was nothing short of phenomenal. It certainly consisted of some bold flavours, but everything worked together, and worked well.
As is her practice, my fiancée made up her mind before she left the house, and ordered pan roasted scallops, which were served with edamame, mahogany clams, sun gold tomatoes, and miso. I must admit I was a bit skeptical at first, but again, Nathan did not disappoint. Everything flowed together, and the clams really added a very nice touch.
As usual, the service was impeccable. Our waiter not only knew it was my birthday, but had arranged for the menus of the day to say so on the bottom in 24 point bold type (not that anyone else in the restaurant had any idea who I was), and brought me a card signed by the staff (as in all of the staff), along with a Valhrona chocolate truffle for dessert. While I’m trying to forget exactly how old I am, I won’t soon forget the meal I had there. Excellent job, Mr. Beauchamp! I look forward to doing this again – just don’t tell Ris.
1789 Restaurant
1226 36th Street, NW
Washington, D.C. 20007
(202) 965-1789
In addition to the standard fare, 1789 has a coupon on their site which will get you a three course meal for $36 (lamb and filet carry a $10 surcharge).

California Tortilla is giving out free Pop Tarts on July 18th. Just a little over two weeks from now, you can stroll into your neighborhood Cal-Tort and get a Pop-Tart.
Gotta give Pop-Tarts credit – they’re just as unhealthy now as they were when we were kids. All the rage nowadays is with making organic versions of cereals and cookies with whole grain. Doing the Atkins/South Beach diet? Have a low carb Oreo. Not Pop-Tarts, though. Instead of jumping on the fickle bandwagon of diet food fads, they figured out consumers want actual comfort from their comfort foods. Now they’re rolling out Apple Strudel, Cookies and Cream, Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough and Strawberry Milkshake flavors, and there’s not a whole grain or alternative sugar to be found.
Those geniuses even figured out how to make a prewrapped, portable and easily-heated treat more convenient – eliminate the need to heat it. Hence, the Go-Tart.
No word yet if Baja Fresh is going to have a free Toaster Strudel promotion, but we’ll let you know.

I’ve written seven articles about eating on the cheap in Arlington, and was looking for a happy hour with food specials Friday night in Friendship Heights. I tried Schnozbot, and Washingtonian Happy Hour Finder with no luck, and stumbled across one entry at Happy Hour City. So, a friend and I checked out Chadwick’s 1/2 price appetizer (except shimp and squid) and $2-2.50 house wine and selected beer and drinks specials.
We had black bean chilli, potato skins, and wings, all at 1/2 price, and a couple of glasses of $2 house wine each. The food was decent, and certainly worth the bargain prices. My friend really liked the potato skins.
So, any suggestions for other Friendship Heights happy hours that feature specials on food?
Chadwick’s
5247 Wisconsin Ave NW
Washington, DC
(202) 362-8040

Here is a “Buy One Smoothie Get A Second Smoothie for Free” printable coupon valid until July 4 at participating locations. Here is their store locator.

I tend to think of myself as a pretty well-rounded eater (commentary on my waistline aside), but somehow Afghan cooking hadn’t yet made it into my repertoire. That changed a few Sundays ago, when I stopped by Bamian Restaurant in Falls Church.
Expecting a casual atmosphere, my guest and I were surprised to open the door of the stark, unassuming-looking restaurant on Leesburg Pike and be greeted by the sight of waiters in tuxedos, white tablecloths and a live musician. We actually headed right back out the door, feeling underdressed and underfunded, but a kind, cajoling host convinced us to give the place a try.
Good thing we took his advice – we were lead to an intimate table that was almost a room in itself; it reminded me of the more private alcoves in places like The Melting Pot, without giving off the kind of forced romantic vibe the chain can create. A friendly waiter gave us a few helpful suggestions, and our food was on its way within moments.
It can be challenging finding the combination of classy atmosphere, affordable prices and delicious cuisine, but I wasn’t disappointed with any element at Bamian. Mantu, a dumpling of sorts with spiced meat, yogurt and mint, was a savory way to start the meal. I was impressed with my guest’s order of Chef Carrayee, an assertively-flavored chicken dish that tasted vaguely of cilantro. But the night’s crowning achievement was the Quabili Palau, which I ordered. Whether it be the perfectly cooked rice, the rich meat sauce on the side, the impossibly tender pieces of lamb, or the heaping, sweet addition of carrots and raisins, it was a wonderful combination of flavors I’d never experienced before. The Afghan nan (very similar to the Indian bread) was also first rate.
Bamian’s prices seem almost shockingly reasonable when taking into account the food and setting – for two entrees, two (non-alcoholic) beverages and an appetizer, the bill totaled around $40. I’d almost like to keep the place a secret, but considering I opened my Washingtonian this month and saw it mentioned in the lead of the Cheap Eats article, I doubt it will remain empty for long. For a first taste of Afghan cuisine, I couldn’t have hoped for a better initiation.
Bamian Restaurant
5634 Leesburg Pike
Falls Church, Virginia 22041
703/820-7880

I recently followed up on Taqueria Nacionale. The soft tacos were less stiff. I tried two different tacos, the pork tacos, which have onions and peppers, and the chicken tacos, which have onions. I also ordered the rice, which has tomato in it. It really does seem like they are getting their act together, since the food was tasty, and the wait was not as long.
Oh, thanks “Taco Boy” for your comments on my original taco article. Yes, the Mexican cokes are good. I’ve even located the bottle opener in my office. 🙂
Taqueria Nacionale
444 N. Capitol Street
Washington, DC 20001

I first went to Marrakesh (the restaurant on New York Ave, not the city), about two years ago, drawn by the spectacle rather than the food. Marrakesh is not so much about dinner as it is about dinner theatre–a beautiful space, belly dancers, waiters who hand you hot towels and pour mint tea from on high in the Moroccan style–and consequently the food was sort of…meh. I mentally checked off that restaurant from my list, figured I’d never go again, and forgot about it.
But. Last night I attended a group dinner there, again drawn by the spectacle and the good company, and found to my delight that the food had improved. The dinner consisted of seven courses, five of which were worth learning how to make at home. The roast chicken with lemon and olives was tender and juicy, with snappy crisp skin and just enough fat to be difficult to eat with one’s hands, but still worth the great trouble. The lamb was heavy, but fall-apart tender and flavorful. The pastry was flaky and buttery and sweet, and, wonderfully, included almonds instead of walnuts or pistachios. (I have a nut allergy, so it is possible that all Moroccan pastry is this good, and I just never knew.) The Moroccan wine (sold only by the carafe/bottle) was also better than expected–smooth and fruity and lingering.
The place is still about the spectacle more than the food, so I’m not going to advise you to rush out and try it again as soon as possible. But if you haven’t been lately and think it’s not so great, eventually, do give it another try. I hope you get the same belly dancer we did. Wow.)

Sound the trumpets and break out the confetti, the Dupont eatery for which we’ve been waiting five long, hungry years has finally arrived. When signs for Circa first showed up at the location of the ill-fated Wrap Works I know I couldn’t have been the only one holding my breath; mid-range options in the area have long been limited to waiting in line for Raku or settling for Bistro Du Coin, (french in only the bad aspects of the term). And while the recent arrival of Hanks Oyster Bar two blocks east has alleviated the misery somewhat, it’s still not the type of place hungry tourists and CEO’s alike could stop off after work.
Well, Circa is. Mild-mannered coffee bar and café by day, mild-mannered restaurant and wine bar by night, someone heard my fevered prayers. Dressed in dark wood, the newly redone location at the corner of Connecticut and Q boasts a crazy sound system, comfortable chairs, a nice outdoor patio, and absolutely lovely staff to match. The long communal bar table is perfect for breaking out the laptop to leach off the free wifi while soaking up something from their 1500-strong wine locker.
A recent lunchtime visit brought an excellent grilled shrimp salad to my table, as well as one of the best bacon burgers I’ve had the privilege to absorb. Any earlier and there would have been muffins and coffee; a little later and I might have tried what I swear sound like bangers and mash, Lobster ravioli, and Scottish smoked salmon as part of their late night menu.
With hours from 6 am to 2am, could it be that Kramers is about to lose its stranglehold on Dupont’s late night food scene? I sure as hell hope so.

When my boyfriend and I met friends of ours for dinner at Piola before catching a show at Rosslyn Spectrum the other night, I had no idea we were hitting the restaurant on its most special evening of the month…gnocchi night!
On the 29th of each month, the Rosslyn-based branch of the European chain offers All You Can Eat Gnocchi for something around $10 a plate.
The question is…how much gnocchi can a person actually eat?
The answer? Probably more than one should. Piola lets you choose from any of its menu’s varieties (the night I went, it was tomato basil, four cheese, and ham/eggplant marinara – friends have raved about the pumpkin variety on other evenings), as well as mix and match when it comes time for a refill. It’s impossible not to leave the place bursting.
The gnocchi itself is decent, if not a revelation. The pasta is heavy but homey – the marinara-laced varieties definitely benefit from a little Parmesan cheese, while the four cheese is almost overwhelmingly rich, though the gorgonzola adds a much-needed bite. My favorite of the three definitely was the ham and eggplant, which were both delicious accents to the doughy pasta.
I’ve had Piola’s pizza before, and liked it without being blown away; the place boasts tasty salads and fun treats like Bellinis as well. Whether the restaurant is a destination spot, either on the 29th or otherwise, can be debated, but they sure are generous with their gnocchi.
Piola
1550 Wilson blvd.
Arlington, VA 22209
P: 703-528.1502