It’s a surreal twist of fate that has placed the best chocolate chip cookies in Dupont, not at Teaism with it’s Cakelove-created baked goods, and not at Marvelous Market or Firehook Bakery, lovely tho their other products are. The best chocolate chip cookies in Dupont are at Joe Muggs caf
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24Jan
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19Jan
The worst thing that can happen to your body, barring bus collisions, falling off a cliff, or using any product from the Body Shop, is to live next to a Chipotle. But right up there at # 2 is knowing that Jandara of Woodly Park is on your way home from work every day.
I am not even gonna try to be unbiased here. In a city of mediocre Thai restaurants, Jandara is tasty and fast. In an area of touristy, food, Jandara is cheap and incidentally very pretty. One evening you look up after picking your plate clean to discover that these factors have brought you back there every day for a week.
After much research entirely in the name of culinary inquiry, I suggest:- Chicken with green curry – Actually, get this just for the chili coconut sauce. I
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16Jan

Those of you bouncing around our little gritty city know that for the best in refined entertainment nothing beats an evening of balletic inebriation at one of DC’s finest cultural establishments.
Last Saturday (1) was Bluestate at the Black Cat backstage bar. Four hours, four DJs, four dollar rail. (And three-fifty beers but that doesn’t square with my quartenary fetish. Get it? “Square” with…).
So break out your church-keys and swizzle sticks–we’re going to review the drinks, learn about beer, and maybe learn a little about life (2).
Part 1
or: Righfully ashamed of your heritage.
The choices at the bar (3) were Domestic, Furrin, and Rail.
Now there seems to be some sort of mental block about American beer amongst the mildly educated. It’s ok for British beer to taste like watered down weasel piss because “It’s Supposed To”. It’s all right for Irish beer to taste like rotting coffee grounds because “I.S.T.”. Similarly, no one notices the German removal of all whimsy from their beer and the Belgian beers crafty substitution of fruit for flavor because (say it with me) “They’re Supposed To”.
Normal American beer taste likes the alchohol-reduced proceeds of a dialysis session because it’s supposed to (4). But please keep in mind that its signature “flavor” developed in an era (5) when people were pretty much blitzed 24/7. They’d have hard cider for breakfast, whiskey at dinner and spend all day in the sun. Picture this: your wagon wheel just snapped again, you’re hot, tired, and that 5am eyeopener is starting to turn on you. You may choose one of the following: warm mucousy milk, raw throat-peeling whiskey, cloudy cholera-ridden water, or a cool refreshing barely alcholic, lightly-flavored beer. If you have to think about this you’ve been insufficiently exposed to the elements. I recommend being duct-taped to the hood of an LA-bound Greyhound in August.
That being said, I’m also not going to defend American beer’s flavor. Proctoscopy and root canals have their place but they aren’t something to be proud of.
Part 2
or: Yer eether with us or agin’ us!
Import beers as commonly stocked are a cruel joke. Instead of taking the opportunity to provide a balanced bar and serve some novel flavors, most bars serve whatever tastes the most like the domestics they already provide (6). It means that you can be guaranteed a Mexican beer with a piece of fruit jammed in the neck to disguise its flavor, an imported lite beer that no one’s heard of in the old country, or a German beer that you couldn’t give away to a homeless alchoholic in Berlin. If they won’t drink ’em back where they came from why would you? It’s like dating foreigners; don’t drop your standards just because of the cute accent. (7)
Part 3
or: Where am I and who are you?
Rail drinks are the barometer of bartending. Broke? Poor? Just plain beat-down? If you can walk up to your bartender and ask him for a vodka tonic sure in the knowledge that you’ll be getting enough off-brand nail polish remover to lift off the top of your head, then you’re at the right bar. The Black Cat is a huge winner here. The bartenders are fast, generous, and happy to provide the drink-appropriate fruit accompaniment. My lovely assistant had a turpentine and cranberry that was just slightly pink and my other colleague was given a drain cleaner and tonic that betrayed the presence of tonic only by the barest hint of carbonation. These guys know that when you’re ordering rail you don’t need the comfort of not-tasting-the-booze.
So three cheers for the Black Cat bartenders, long may their heavy hands slosh paint thinner!
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(1) Some of us need multiple editorial revisions before we can so much as sign our name. Please bear with the delay.
(2) You won’t learn anything about life, I promise.
(3) As far as those of us on an age-appropriate income are concerned, call drinks aren’t a viable option.
(4) As opposed to Sam Adams style microbrews which taste like that because they were brewed by guys with a PHD in marketing and no taste buds.
(5) The era when people who dressed like the Amish were called hipsters.
(6) Not to mention that by the time a big shipment of beer makes it across the ocean and is distributed, a disturbing number of the bottles have become skunked.*
(7) Unless it’s that breathy Persian accent. You can totally drop your standards for that.
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*Would you drink wine that had become corked? Of course not! Spew that mouthful of stale brew right back at them and don’t take any of the bartender’s “Imports are supposed to taste like that” crap. -
14Jan
Last night, which appears to have been the last night of this mini-summer here in DC, I joined NM, Kanishka, and Richard for Restaurant Week dinner at Vidalia.
Vidalia is really all about the food; the entry is so unremarkable as to be entirely too easy to overlook, with no menu or even indication of restaurant-ness in the window. Entry is down a flight of stairs into a lovely, pale onion-colored (that *must* be intentional!) basement dining room. Not too dark, but a bit chilly for my taste. We were escorted to our table, in the far back room, with a window to the wine cellar/room. I sat closest to said window, always wanting to be as near to the wine as possible.
Drink orders were immediate. Two Gibsons, mine with Sapphire and Kanishka’s with Stoli (a Martini, except with onions instead of olives or a twist. Richard had his from the bar), and a tasting portion of wine. Our server arrived shortly with two Martini glasses and two small shakers, which he shook and poured. He even knew to be more vigorous on the Sapphire than on the Stoli – gin is best well broken. Richard said he’d had better onions, but they were soaked in booze, so I at least didn’t mind. We drank and chatted and munched on mostly unremarkable cornbread made divine by addition of luscious apple butter.
Many of the items on the menu had added costs ($4 for appetizers and $6 for entrees, mostly), and after some deliberation, including much discussion of Restaurant Week pricing here and at other places around town, we ordered.
I decided to go for it, and got the cost-extra Grillade with Grits to start. The plate is gorgeous, a rectangle of veal cheek over a clover-shaped mass of yellow grits, covered in a deep crimson sauce and garnished with alfalfa greens. The sauce, a compote mainly of dried tomatoes and onions, is exquisite, with what I think was a hint of chipotle. The grits were perfect, not overly sticky and with just enough, well, grit. The veal cheek was so tender it was almost jelly, but I felt like its flavor was too delicate to withstand the sauce. I would have preferred a gamier cut, but the sauce was so good I don’t actually care. I abashedly admit I have no idea what my compatriots had for appetizers – mine was so engrossing. One thing noticed and discussed by all was the extreme curviness and heft of Vidalia’s forks. NM and I agreed to be unsure how we felt about these, but in the end, since flatware is generally so boring, I like seeing some variety, and these were unique.
By this point in the meal, I was ready for a wine. The wine list is extensive, and expensive, full of names I don’t know, which really surprises, excites and impresses me: it’s rare I don’t know anything about any of the wines on a list, except by varietals and year. So I picked one that looked interesting, and asked our server.
“Light and pineappley,” he said.
“Not with what I’m eating,” I replied, and away he went, promising to return full of ideas.
Return he did and I sampled a wine which was suggested by the restaurant’s sommelier. It was lovely, so I had a glass. Our meals arrived soon thereafter.
NM had Atlantic Salmon, which she said was “OK,” but reminds herself that after visiting Iceland, she ought not to order salmon ever again. Richard ordered the Southern Style Cassoulet, which looked lovely, and he said was great, a nice mix of meats and beans, well sauced. Kanishka had Fluke, a light, flakey fish that he said was again “just OK,” and the anduille was not as spicy as he’d have liked, but the dish was really made by its sauce. My chicken and dumplings was really good, rich (but not heavy), and savory cream sauce. Most remarkable though was the wine pairing – while relatively light, it had enough acidity to it to break up the richness of the food, and the flavors, some fruit and mild herb, set off the food beautifully.
Then came dessert. Two of Vidalia’s famous Lemon Chess Cakes, and one Pecan thingey, and an assortment of sorbets. The Pecan thing was very yummy, not too rich or molassessey. The Lemon was very good too, although not my thing, so I shan’t say more. The sorbets were … mixed. The red (presumably raspberry) one was nice, tart and smooth; the yellow (not sure what the flavor was) was earthier, sweeter, and lovely; the pale yellow (I think lemon or lime) was basically nothing.
The service was very good: timely and well-timed, gracious, helpful. The trick of restaurant week is that while your meal may be much less expensive than you normally expect at a given restaurant, drinks are not. $11 is, frighteningly, not too steep for a Sapphire in DC, but I have now fulfilled by annual quota of one glass of wine over $10, and it was well worth it!
On the whole, from what I had and heard from others at the DC F -
14Jan
Last night, which appears to have been the last night of this mini-summer here in DC, I joined NM, Kanishka, and Richard for Restaurant Week dinner at Vidalia.
Vidalia is really all about the food; the entry is so unremarkable as to be entirely too easy to overlook, with no menu or even indication of restaurant-ness in the window. Entry is down a flight of stairs into a lovely, pale onion-colored (that *must* be intentional!) basement dining room. Not too dark, but a bit chilly for my taste. We were escorted to our table, in the far back room, with a window to the wine cellar/room. I sat closest to said window, always wanting to be as near to the wine as possible.
Drink orders were immediate. Two Gibsons, mine with Sapphire and Kanishka’s with Stoli (a Martini, except with onions instead of olives or a twist. Richard had his from the bar), and a tasting portion of wine. Our server arrived shortly with two Martini glasses and two small shakers, which he shook and poured. He even knew to be more vigorous on the Sapphire than on the Stoli – gin is best well broken. Richard said he’d had better onions, but they were soaked in booze, so I at least didn’t mind. We drank and chatted and munched on mostly unremarkable cornbread made divine by addition of luscious apple butter.
Many of the items on the menu had added costs ($4 for appetizers and $6 for entrees, mostly), and after some deliberation, including much discussion of Restaurant Week pricing here and at other places around town, we ordered.
I decided to go for it, and got the cost-extra Grillade with Grits to start. The plate is gorgeous, a rectangle of veal cheek over a clover-shaped mass of yellow grits, covered in a deep crimson sauce and garnished with alfalfa greens. The sauce, a compote mainly of dried tomatoes and onions, is exquisite, with what I think was a hint of chipotle. The grits were perfect, not overly sticky and with just enough, well, grit. The veal cheek was so tender it was almost jelly, but I felt like its flavor was too delicate to withstand the sauce. I would have preferred a gamier cut, but the sauce was so good I don’t actually care. I abashedly admit I have no idea what my compatriots had for appetizers – mine was so engrossing. One thing noticed and discussed by all was the extreme curviness and heft of Vidalia’s forks. NM and I agreed to be unsure how we felt about these, but in the end, since flatware is generally so boring, I like seeing some variety, and these were unique.
By this point in the meal, I was ready for a wine. The wine list is extensive, and expensive, full of names I don’t know, which really surprises, excites and impresses me: it’s rare I don’t know anything about any of the wines on a list, except by varietals and year. So I picked one that looked interesting, and asked our server.
“Light and pineappley,” he said.
“Not with what I’m eating,” I replied, and away he went, promising to return full of ideas.
Return he did and I sampled a wine which was suggested by the restaurant’s sommelier. It was lovely, so I had a glass. Our meals arrived soon thereafter.
NM had Atlantic Salmon, which she said was “OK,” but reminds herself that after visiting Iceland, she ought not to order salmon ever again. Richard ordered the Southern Style Cassoulet, which looked lovely, and he said was great, a nice mix of meats and beans, well sauced. Kanishka had Fluke, a light, flakey fish that he said was again “just OK,” and the anduille was not as spicy as he’d have liked, but the dish was really made by its sauce. My chicken and dumplings was really good, rich (but not heavy), and savory cream sauce. Most remarkable though was the wine pairing – while relatively light, it had enough acidity to it to break up the richness of the food, and the flavors, some fruit and mild herb, set off the food beautifully.
Then came dessert. Two of Vidalia’s famous Lemon Chess Cakes, and one Pecan thingey, and an assortment of sorbets. The Pecan thing was very yummy, not too rich or molassessey. The Lemon was very good too, although not my thing, so I shan’t say more. The sorbets were … mixed. The red (presumably raspberry) one was nice, tart and smooth; the yellow (not sure what the flavor was) was earthier, sweeter, and lovely; the pale yellow (I think lemon or lime) was basically nothing.
The service was very good: timely and well-timed, gracious, helpful. The trick of restaurant week is that while your meal may be much less expensive than you normally expect at a given restaurant, drinks are not. $11 is, frighteningly, not too steep for a Sapphire in DC, but I have now fulfilled by annual quota of one glass of wine over $10, and it was well worth it!
On the whole, from what I had and heard from others at the DC F -
14Jan
Apparently, Iron Chef America will have Roberto Donna from DC’s Galileo on it this season, so sayith the NYtimes and they are never wrong. About anything. ever.
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11Jan
I must have been out of metaphorical room during the five seconds it took for mixed topping ice cream to become popular. I leave at 4:30 and everyone -
09Jan
Five years ago, almost to the day, I embarked on my semester abroad in Strasbourg. This morning came DCist’s mention of L’Auberge Chez Francois, an Alsatian restaurant in Vienna (whose owner is a friend of a gentleman who guided many of my travels through Alsace), and shortly after that, an email from an old friend (and fellow culinary adventurer), pointing me to this piece in the Times, hailing the virtues of Alsace’s signature dish, choucroute.
Now I’m hungry and desperately miss Strasbourg, with its cheap, plentiful, amazing food and even more mind-blowing wine (I was there in the better days of the dollar). The article does a nice job in describing how good choucroute can be – even I, shy of pork product and anything cabbage-like, cannot resist its warm, tasty allure – but of course sticks to its theme, and does no more than mention any of the other amazing foods available in this oft-invaded region.
Below is a recipe for one of my favorites, the above-mentioned Tarte -
02Jan
There
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31Dec
In a city of transplants where 3-4 years is the average staying-period, even the most dedicated Hill Staffer hesitates to say
