• 08Jan

    Squid.JPG I love calamari, squid salad, and Italian squid pastas, but I’d never tried cooking any such cephalopod myself. As usual, cheap produce lead me to new adventures: fresh squid rings were $2.00 per pound at YDFM today, and Thai basil was $0.99/lb. So, I decided to try a Thai-esque dinner. I used:
    For the sauce:
    1/4 cup Thai basil
    1/2 tsp. ground ginger (or 1 tsp fresh grated)
    2 tsp hot pepper flakes
    3/4 tbs. light soy sauce
    3/4 tbs. fish sauce
    2 squeezes honey (1 tsp?).
    Everything Else
    3/4 lbs. fresh squid rings (or whatever bits you prefer)
    White hominy (I used 1 can)
    Sesame oil
    Rice wine
    Sriracha
    Lemon juice
    I first asked Professor Google how long squid need to be cooked (I’m still not clear on the answer: mine were a bit rubbery), and then set to considering my sauce options. Combining a number of mixtures I’ve used over the years and the ideas I remember from squid dishes I’ve eaten, combined the above-listed sauce ingredients in a mixing bowl, and stirred them together.
    Having done that, I threw some sesame oil into my wok and got it going. When the oil was hot (just beginning to sputter), I lifted the wok for a few seconds, threw in a handful of chopped basil, and returned the wok to the burner, beginning to toss the basil and oil about. Once the basil was crispy, I added my squid, stir-frying it with the oil and basil for about 1 minute.
    Then, I turned down the heat to medium and stirred in my sauce. As that simmered a bit, I put my hominy in a sauce pan over low heat with a couple splashes of oil, a few of lemon juice, and a sprinkle of ginger.
    My accompaniment in the works, I added the remaining basil to the squid and stirred. Then I added a few squirts of Sriracha and maybe a quarter cup of rice wine to moisten it. When the squid seemed done, I removed everything from the heat.
    I served the squid over the hominy, the latter’s lemony starchiness balancing the former’s slightly sweet spiciness. All in all a successful and satisfying dinner in almost no time (total fridge-to-plate: less than 10 minutes), plus the sauce is a definite keeper: it’d be good on almost anything!

    Permalink Filed under: Recipes 1 Comment
  • 04Jan

    face_yuck.gifAt 7:45 p.m. on New Year’s Eve, I was getting into the rental car at my hotel in Orlando, all dressed up pretty and psyched for the succulent-sounding Mediterranean fusion dinner and champagne waiting for me at an elegant downtown restaurant called Fusion 7.
    At 11:00 p.m., I was texting all my friends to tell them I was at the worst restaurant in the history of cuisine, and begging for rescue.
    To be perfectly honest, once it became clear that we were not going to have a great (or even a good) New Year’s Eve dinner, I allowed myself to be entertained by the glorious disaster of the evening. The ballet of ineptitude, it unfolded thus:
    The hostess had previously told us that our suburban hotel was about ten minutes away from the restaurant, but we couldn’t help noticing that her original directions took us in exactly the opposite direction of downtown. So we called at 7:50 to make sure we were going the right way. She told us that when she’d said “left,” she’d actually meant “right,” so we should turn around. Twenty minutes later, we called again. The same hostess tells us that when she said “turn around,” she actually meant “keep going straight.”
    And that’s how we showed up for our reservation an hour late, to a “downtown” restaurant located in strip mall in the outer suburbs. They recognized us the party they have just sent on an hour-long detour, but no apology was forthcoming.
    Other infuriating things:
    I asked for details about an unfamiliar wine on the list. The waiter shrugged. “…Is there a sommelier?” I asked, meaning, Is there someone smarter than you? Apparently there was not.
    I asked about the preparation of the fish on the menu. I got another shrug. He called over another waiter. Shrug. Repeat. Eventually there were four waiters clustered around my table, shrugging. No one went to ask the chef. Finally, one waitress said, “Oh! I know! It’s a sauce!
    Does this have nuts? I’m allergic to nuts. Shrug. Could you ask please? Waiter trundled off, never to return.
    Fish bones in the tasteless ceviche. Crab shell in the tasteless crabcake. Bandaids on the face of the tasteless waiter.
    I’d like that medium rare, please. Would well done be okay?
    Here’s your sorbet, to, uh….(as he waved his hands frantically in the air, probably trying to remember big words like “cleanse” and “palate”)……you know!
    To my friend as he was eating his risotto (pronounced at this fine establishment as riz-otto): Are you done with that?
    And finally, they brought the check. Up until this point I have alternated between flinty stares at the waiters who most annoyed me and hysterical laughter, and if the check had come without incident this article might be a little more gentle. How-the-hell-ever. I already mentioned that the hostess’ bad directions sent us an hour out of our way, so we arrived Fusion 7 at about 9 p.m. for our 8 p.m. reservation. Did we get an apology? A round of drinks to make for their ineptitude? No.
    Instead, they charged us $10 each for being late.
    This article has been brought to you by Karen, the Bitter, Ranting, Italicizing Food Critic, more for your amusement than edification.

    Permalink Filed under: Travel 2 Comments
  • 03Jan

    pirateflag.gifI enjoyed Ray’s Year In Review post so much that I figured I’d do one of my own. Here are some of my notable meals from 2007:

    Bamian probably wins my award for best new discovery this year. The one thing holding me back – I stopped there last week in an attempt to introduce some out of town friends to Afghan cuisine. After 15 minutes without a host (and overhearing a cell phone conversation from a patron calling FROM THE LOBBY to say he had reservations a half hour ago and hadn’t been acknowledged), we were forced to walk out of the beloved joint. Still, I’m probably willing to give them another chance – the food is amazing for the price.

    Old Hickory Grille is the kind of place that makes you feel like a regular even if you’re not – the Cajun-influenced cooking is homey and the booth-style seating is comfortable. I wish their hours were a bit more extended and regular, though. The place I actually BECAME a (semi) regular is Piratz Tavern, despite living in VA and its being in Silver Spring (it helps to have a pirate-obsessed boyfriend). The dining and service are inconsistent at best – it’s not unusual to be served a dish cold, wait a long time for food, or experience an order mix-up. Plus, order a Black Strap Betty one night, and it’ll taste completely different the next. But I can’t get enough of the vibe of the place, have gotten to know and love the servers, and can shrug off any hassle once I have some Grog in me. Try the Squid for a drink if Grog isn’t your thing, and be sure to sample the piri piri chicken, the salmagundi stew and the prego no pao steak sandwich.

    Despite being a (local) chain, Sweetwater Tavern kind of became a de-facto special occasion spot, mostly due to location, late hours and reliable food. The service is expedient, and I’ve never had a bad dish there, and many of the offerings, particularly fish dishes, are very good indeed. I could eat my weight in their chicken con queso, and I love anywhere that brews their own beer, even if the beers themselves (Dogfish Head Ale House, I’m talking to you), are not to my taste.

    Read the rest of this entry »

  • 02Jan

    nye.jpg

    One of the problems with developing a writing persona named the “Five Paragraph Bitter Food Critic” is maintaining that mantle of bitterness even when surrounded by a sea of competence, class and quality. When I started the 5PBFC, I figured that given my average of 4 meals out a week, I’d have at least one clunker fortnightly, thus providing DCFUD.com plenty of bitter material. However, as I looked over my 2007 notes of the year, I discovered something quite shocking: I had ten bad meals the entire year; and six of them came from two places, Bangkok 54 and Dad’s Backyard Burgers. That means the vast majority of my meals were anywhere from “decent” to “incredible.” It’s hard to complain about such a high batting average.

    Now, I must go off on how absolutely disappointing Dad’s was. For a store that took nearly 3 years to build, I had hoped for a burger experience that didn’t taste like a green onion explosion. My first bite there was sadly the best; repeat visits were lousy and hardly worth mentioning. I’d love to support an independent burger joint, but their burgers tasted more like a kabob-spiced meatloaf – they may want to think about competing with nearby and always-packed Merrifield Kabob than routinely-good Five Guys and sometimes-brilliant Elevation Burger…that is, depending on whether they can stay open. While a banner touts “Now Open,” a paper sign on the door says that Dad won’t reopen until Virginia Power finishes work on the building, though neighboring businesses are open. Hmmm….more mystery from Dad’s. As for Bangkok 54, the former shining star of Northern Virginia’s Thai dining scene has declined in terms of food quality and handling; prepare to give birth to a food baby if you eat there and don’t stray far from the restrooms, just in case. Their dining room is lovely; it’s a shame the back of the house is having issues. They easily have been eclipsed by longtime stalwart Duangrats at Bailey’s Crossroads and the newish Mint further up Route 7 towards Seven Corners (review coming soon).

    However, I will concede to the goodwill of the Holiday season to concentrate on the positive. My dining year started off on a high note with the DCFUD.com staff at Bobby Van’s, followed by a delicious Restaurant Week experience at Taberna del Alabardero. 2 Amys continued to churn out quality pizzas, Ella’s did the same, and the chainy-but-good ZPizza offered a delicious pie with high quality ingredients for a decent price. Matchbox’s dining room expansion didn’t dilute the quality of their food one bit, and the District Chophouse provided a fine meal in a casual, but classy, environment. My well-publicized visit to La Perla offered better tortellini than expected, and Georgetown’s Filomena may be considered hit-or-miss, but I had two hits there in 2007, and enjoyed their good Sunday brunch, too. The new Liberty Tavern in Clarendon offered surprisingly good upscale bar food, though those looking for a quiet meal should head elsewhere – that place is louder than the wails of a screaming child at a southern Wal-Mart. Eamonn’s proved to be a welcome addition to the Alexandria scene, and I’m anxious to try owner Cathal Armstrong’s makeover of The Majestic with Shannon Overmiller’s cooking on King Street in 2008. Hank’s Oyster Bar in DC stars in the background with Trio in a new car commercial, and a new location in Old Town is promising. Fogo De Chao and Texas De Brazil fed my churrascaria dreams of well-seasoned Argentinean meat, and Macchu Picchu did a fine job representing South American neighbor Peru. Huong Que at the Eden Center served fine Vietnamese fare on multiple visits, and impressed some good friends from Chicago. Spices in Cleveland Park did a good job of clearing my sinuses while on a first date – yeah, thanks for that, by the way. No, that wasn’t embarrassing at all – but damn it tasted fine, and nearby Indique’s tamarind-enhanced drinks made even the rainiest of days much more delightful.

    Bebo Trattoria opened up with much fanfare in Crystal City, though complaints about lousy service stick to the place like stink on a hobo. The Tortoise and the Hare opened up on Crystal City’s 23rd Street, taking over the former space of Stars and Stripes. Can’t say I’d complain about that a bit – Stars and Stripes had a big TV and good beer but a lousy crab cake, and T&H promises a good American contemporary menu. Urban Thai still served quality food at a reasonable price, and the recent expansion of the Crystal City Sports Pub just gives more folks a chance to dine on their good bar food while following their favorite sports’ teams. Summer’s at the Courthouse Metro did the same, plus they put with my wails of anguish every weekend as I watched my beloved Ravens go from Super Bowl contender to laughing stock of the NFL in one calendar year. Al’s Steaks in Del Ray single-handedly made me gain a pound, and that was before I discovered the glories of Gladys Knight and Ron Winan’s Chicken and Waffles at the Largo Town Center. In my neighborhood of Shirlington, a new Cakelove outpost opened up; Busboys and Poets put in a second location with some fine Belgian beers on tap; Bear Rock Cafe’ offered good sandwiches and breakfast chow, and the brand-spanking new Saigonique fed me a wonderful ginger noodle dish on Christmas Eve in a beautiful dining room. And damn if Weenie Beanie didn’t bring the goods every time I craved a half-smoke.

    Heck, even the Pentagon got a decent eatery, the All-American Grill. Thank God for Sport and Health or else I’d be the size of a Beefcake-era Eric Cartman.
    In the fine tradition laid down by every critic in every conceivable subject, this time of the year demands a “Best of…” list. I could try to spawn an internal dialog about which meal in the previous 12 months was the best, and categorize restaurants by price or location or cuisine. Instead, I’m choosing to look forward to 2008, to which places I missed in 2007.

    * Central – we at DCFUD have been trying to have a writers’ outing here for months, yet somehow we went to the otherwise-fine-but-it-ain’t-Central Malyasian Kopitiam instead of an affordable offering from Michel Richard? We’re going this year, kids. Jay, save your money. You’re going. Even if I have to carry you in there kicking and screaming. You made me eat at Kam Fong; I’m making you eat at Central.
    * The Majestic – the restaurant formerly known as the Majestic Cafe’ was a delightful, charming outpost, and the recent takeover and reimagining by Cathal Armstrong should make this one of the best mid-priced restaurants in Northern Virginia in 2008.

    * West End Bistro – the early buzz over Eric Ripert’s newest restaurant was that the food was definitely good, but not imaginative. I would have to guess that as the staff becomes more situated and comfortable, this restaurant will bring more international buzz to the DC dining scene.
    * HookBarton Seaver’s ambitious plan to serve only sustainable seafood deserves the respect of all diners with a soul. Plus, the guy can flat-out cook.

    * Hooked – I grew up next to the Chesapeake Bay. I love seafood. Sue me. And a seafood restaurant out by Dulles and Ace Photo that doesn’t have cheap plastic fishnets on the walls and meals made of a mysterious element known as “krab” has my support.
    * Station 9 – U Street keeps getting hipper and hipper, and this place promises an updated look on American standards.
    And, hopefully the DC area will honor a few New Year’s Resolutions, and this year’s theme is to be A Little More Like Baltimore:

    1) To have a good Jewish deli like Attman’s near the Inner Harbor East developments. Sometimes a nice Catholic boy like me wants a good corned beef on rye.
    2) To have a decent BBQ place somewhere between Dixie Bones in Woodbridge and Urban in Rockville to compete with Rocklands. They’re the only game in NoVA, and while they’re a fine establishment, it’d be nice for something likeAndy Nelson’s in Cockeysville.
    3) To have a pit beef place anywhere. I don’t care where, but pit beef is a Baltimore delicacy that should be brought forth to the Nations’ Capital post haste.
    4) To have more waterfront dining options. The Inner Harbor, Fells Point, Locust Point, Canton, Essex, Middle River – all loaded with everything from mega-chains to cozy family seafood places, and they all have serene water views. DC has a couple of high-end places in Georgetown and Phillip’s at the Waterfront. Advantage – Baltimore.
    5) To be like bICYCLE. If you ever find yourself on Light Street, south of the Inner Harbor between Federal Hill and Locust Point, you’ll see this charming, delicious bistro. It’s been open for nearly 8 years, and it’s still as good today as it opened. They strive for good food and consistency, and they hit far more often than they miss.
    and, the most important:
    6) To create a vibrant neighborhood near the new stadium – granted, this will be a work in progress, but one of the best things about Camden Yards is the proximity to great bars, restaurants and attractions…cos’ it ain’t da O’s, hon. Redeveloping an area best known for the desperately-missed dance club Nation, light industrial brown zones, and a grouping of *ahem* adult establishments is all going to take some time, but for the love of God, city planners, do not dare turn it into a soulless strip of chains and fern bars. D.C.’s trying to do it with Chinatown/Penn Quarter, where fairly soon the only thing Asian in that neighborhood will be the tourists in town to watch the Wizards play Yao Ming and the Houston Rockets. You know darned well Prince George’s County will botch it with the National Harbor, as they’ve failed to put in anything with personality near FedEx Field, and that’s been open for almost a decade. But really, D.C., you can do it. Look at U Street. Adams-Morgan. H Street. Cleveland Park. Those are areas where the city is trying to express itself with mostly-independent businesses. Please, don’t replicate a Loudoun County strip mall complete with a chain restaurant park on South Capitol Street and lie to yourself, saying “it’s progress.” It’s regression to a mean, and the city deserves better.

    -RAY

  • 28Dec

    restaurantcom.jpg
    Take a look at the current Restaurant.com promotion.
    They are offering 70% off the price of their restaurant certificates w/code COUNTDOWN. $25 certificates end up being $3 w/the discount. In addition to the discount, you may get a $15 deLaFlowers Gift Certificate with your order through 12/31. I’ve written about their promotions previously, but the certificate for flowers is new.
    Make sure to read the restrictions for each certificate.

    Permalink Filed under: Etc No Comments
  • 14Dec

    sushi.bmp I know, I know, you’re sick of being told to buy diamonds and Lexuses as Christmas presents. If you really love him, you’ll buy him a Lexus SUV with big bow on top! if you really love her, you’ll be buying her not one but SEVERAL diamonds arranged from smallest to largest, and asking your small children to pretend they don’t know what a wishbone is!
    The truth is, if you REALLY love someone, you ought to consider sending them to Zengo for a Latin-Asian fusion cooking class. (No one is paying me to say this, so listen.) These single-session classes, which start in January, will give students hands-on experience with balancing Latin and Asian flavors. They’ll learn how to do a proper margarita, which is both elegant in its simplicity and kind of a bitch to get right (so they’ll be encouraged to make and drink a LOT of margaritas), and how to roll their own sushi. Rolling sushi was the best part of a highly entertaining and delicious class, and your friend will be so pleased with the way she rolls that she’ll walk out there planning a sushi-rolling party, to which you are sure to be invited. Score one for you!
    Classes will be held on the last Monday of every month starting in January, from 7 to 9 p.m. at Zengo (781 Seventh Street NW). $64 per person, including tax.

    Permalink Filed under: Etc No Comments
  • 13Dec

    geoff.jpg
    I recently was fortunate to attend a Holiday party in a small private room at Chef Geoff’s. I have never been to the restaurant before and was able to try a variety of appetizers and desserts. I’m not sure if all of this is on their regular menu, but here were the items that stood out, even if I don’t know their actual names:
    ∙The duck spring rolls were good, especially with the syrupy teriyaki sauce. There was a mushroom version, which I did not get to try.
    ∙Fried balls of crab meat were sweet, delicious, chewy, and delicate.
    ∙The large shrimp were fresh and tasty but the sweetened (and cold) butter sauce was a bad match. An acidic or garlicky sauce would have worked better.
    ∙The chocolate covered cream puffs and the teeny chocolate berry tarts were excellent because the chocolate was rich and of excellent quality. Your tongue gets coated with wonderfully sweet and bitter chocolaty goodness. Yes, i just said “chocolate” four or five times; it was that good.
    ∙I had a French Kiss. Don’t make me blush; it was actually the name of a drink with champagne, peach liquor, and peach nectar. It was tasty.

  • 10Dec

    If really pressed to identify my favorite dessert, I’d probably have to go for bread pudding. I love the stuff, and have many wonderful childhood memories surrounding it. Bread%20pudding.JPG So, upon seeing Smitten Kitchen’s rendition of a Gourmet magazine recipe I’d been eyeing for Thanksgiving fare, an idea hatched. Then, speaking with a friend about the joys of properly spiked egg nog, the idea grew from a hatchling to … a whatever comes after hatchling … and then in the kitchen on Thanksgiving became a full-fledged recipe. Thanksgiving night, it died in the spectacular way that a really good dessert must: by becoming immortal, eternally embedded in thighs and love handles of diners.
    Here’s how it all went:
    1 ½ cups egg nog (you could probably use Lite, but then why bother?)
    3/4 cup canned pumpkin (the kind that says “Ingredients: Pumpkin” and nothing else)
    1/2 cup white sugar (you could experiment with brown or turbinado, but it might be a bit much)
    2 large eggs
    1 egg yolk
    1/2 teaspoon salt
    1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
    1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
    1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
    Pinch of ground cloves
    1 ½-or-so cups bourbon (optional but really important)
    5 cups day-old baguette or crusty bread, cut into 1-inch bits
    3/4 stick unsalted butter, melted
    1 cup raisins
    ½ cup toasted almond slivers
    Vanilla ice cream
    Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
    Put raisins and almonds and enough bourbon to cover them into a jar with a pretty good seal on the lid (can use plastic wrap). Set this aside. No, you may not have one yet. They’re not ready.
    Now, stir together your pumpkin, nog, sugar, eggs, egg yolk, spices, and about 2 tablespoons of bourbon in a mixing bowl. Coat your bread bits with the melted butter in another bowl, then add the pumpkin mix and toss it so it’s all covered. No, you still may not have any of the raisins. They’re not ready. Not the almonds either.
    Now, put your proto-pudding into a baking pan (preferably not too deep, maybe 2” tops) and bake until it looks done, about 20-30 minutes.
    When you’re ready to serve, drain your raisins and almonds – OK, fine, you can try a few on the way, just for quality control, sure – and spread them over top of the pudding. Challenge your guests to see who’ll drink the raisin-almond-flavored bourbon, or do so yourself if you’re in to that sort of thing. You could even share!
    Serve over vanilla ice cream for best effect, or eat by itself.

  • 01Dec

    Papaya%20Taro.JPG I love dim sum, but I’ve always just left it as something I could only have outside of home. Part of its wonderfulness is the experience – grabbing random bits off the carts, trying new and strange-looking things, and of course competitive gluttony with friends. Recently this changed a bit as I stopped at the Asian grocery on my way home from dim sum, and saw the big block of taro cake on the shelf. I had to try it.
    The next morning I woke early (amazing what going to bed before midnight can do!), and pondered my purchase. A quick Google didn’t turn up any particularly interesting ideas, so I decided to go a bit mad. I had made a bunch of mole last week, and had tons of leftover sauce. I also had a papaya ripening on my windowsill, in need of a purpose. So, I decided to blend some ideas together:

  • Six slices of taro cake (about 3”x3”x1”)
  • 3 tbs. Olive Oil
  • 1 tsp. Sesame Oil
  • About 3 tsp diced Scallions
  • 1/2 cup mole (from mole paste with chicken stock and a splash of hotsauce)
  • Fish sauce
  • Fresh Papaya
  • Heat the olive oil and sesame oil in a pan. Add about 1/4 cup mole, and let it heat until it begins to reduce. Now add your taro cakes, pouring the remaining mole over them, and splashing with fish sauce. Cook over medium heat for about 10 minutes, flipping now and then.
    Now add your scallions, flipping your cakes around to make sure the scallions cook and the cakes get a good coating. Once they are nicely cooked, remove the cakes from the pan and let them cool a minute or two on a paper towel to wick off the excess oil.
    Serving the cakes with fresh papaya really makes this dish: the sweet fruit balances the spicy and slightly oily cakes, and if the fruit is chilled, that makes for a nice contrast as well. Drizzle with soy sauce if you like – I’m a big salt fiend so I do. It’s almost like having dim sum at home.
    Enjoy!

  • 27Nov

    baileys
    Bailey’s Pub & Grille in the Ballston Mall serves free food from a portable food station Wednesdays at 6pm. On one occasion, Ernesto was making pasta alfredo, while people specified their fixin’s. Another Wednesday, he was serving chicken enchiladas from the kitchen, although usually serves food that he makes in front of you.
    Do give Ernesto a $1 or $2 tip, and maybe order a beer at the bar or at your table, but it is still a bargain.
    And, yes, I know that night is bargain beer night at Rockbottom and half price burgers at Front Page, with free live entertainment at both venues. Well, get the free food first and then you can switch venues for some free live music.
    Bailey’s Pub & Grille.
    4238 Wilson Blvd
    Arlington, VA 22203
    703-465-1300

    The previous artices in the Arlington series can be found here, and the DC “nearly broke” article is here.

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