• 05Jun

    grills.JPG
    Back in the days of Reaganomics, console televisions and acid-washed jeans, a young comic by the name of Eddie Murphy entertained crowds with his hilarious bit about “Uncle Gus” taking over the family’s summer cookout. Many of our younger readers may know Eddie Murphy as the loveable star of such family-friendly, mostly unfunny films like The Nutty Professor and Doctor Doolittle, or as the voice of the plucky sidekick “Donkey” in the Shrek trilogy. But back in those early years, Eddie Murphy was a potty-mouthed smart aleck who dropped more f-bombs than a “Big Lebowski/Pulp Fiction” double feature in an unfortunately-named Austrian town catered by a wonderfully-named Vietnamese restaurant in Del Ray. In Murphy’s star-making concert film “Delirious,” Eddie’s Uncle Gus knows how to start a fire, not with lighter fluid, but with gasoline. He instructs his young nephew to go chop down that tree in lieu of charcoal. Stand back. Mushroom cloud. Roll around in the dirt, Eddie, those flames will go out. Uncle Gus then gets chewed out by Eddie’s dad for giving the poor kid 30-degree burns after making a fire large enough to cook brontosaurus burgers. Shortly thereafter, Aunt Bunny fell down the steps, and Uncle Gus’s grill mistakes are forgotten.
    Most of us are not blessed with a huge backyard to host cookouts in the summer or nephews to cut down trees, and few get the practice needed to get reliable results from the grill. So, much like Jim in American Pie, you’ve only got once chance with the hot foreign exchange student. Don’t blow it. Here are some tips to work a solid grill, using song titles to help you out.
    1) “This Fire” – Franz Ferdinand – A charcoal grill can be harder to use than an auctioneer with a hair lip. Step one: Don’t be Uncle Gus. Gas is for cars, not cows. When using charcoal, read the specific instructions for the brand you purchased. Burn-in-bags don’t need additional starter fluid, and your food will taste like you grilled on the Exxon Valdez if you add some. Most charcoal briquettes need 15 to 30 minutes of soaking in fluid, though some require a little more. Arranging the coals in a small pyramid not only salutes our Mayan and Egyptian ancestors, but allows for the briquettes to get hot enough to ensure a long-lasting fire. Once the coals have been burning for 15 to 20 minutes, you can rearrange the coals with long metal tongs to make a flatter heating surface.
    And for the love of Pete, use a long-stem match or wick to light the fire. Countless 3rd-degree burns are caused every year by somebody trying to start a grill using a Zippo and bad reflexes.
    2) “Cooking with Gas” – Nation of Ulysses – You don’t need to be post-punk or Hank Hill to understand the benefits of propane and propane accessories. Most gas grills have automatic lighters, and you can adjust the temperature with a handy dial. However, many people don’t pay attention to tank maintenance and the condition of the hose. Those should be adjusted before starting a cookout, or else your place could burn down faster than the Alpha Beta house at Adams College.
    3) “Smoke Gets in Your Eyes”- Various Artists – Like anybody who’s been to a Jimmy Buffett concert, there’s all sorts of smoke, and that smoke can change your mood. You can use smoke to change the flavors of your food. Adding some water-soaked mesquite chips to your charcoal can give your food a hearty southwestern flavor, and some hickory chips can give you a taste straight from the hills of Tennessee. If you’re fortunate enough to have access to a smoker (the cooking equipment, not some dude with Marlboros), you can make some traditional barbecue by using the indirect heat to slow-cook anything into a delicious state of tenderness and flavor.
    4) “Struttin’ With Some Barbecue” – Louis Armstrong – Satchmo looked a man who enjoyed his barbecue. Your guests will enjoy yours if keep a check on that temperature. A fire that’s too hot will burn the outside of your food while the inside’s raw. If you don’t have a thermometer, try this technique: hold your hand about six inches over the fire. If you can hold it there for 3 to 4 seconds, you and your fire should be fine. That’s about 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Any less than 3 seconds indicates the flame is too hot, so you can just let it burn itself down a bit, or spray some water mist on the coals. Any more than 4 seconds means the flame is too cool, and your food will take a long time to cook.
    Just like regular indoor cooking, the less you touch the food, the more flavor it retains. Steaks, burgers, ribs, chops – those should be flipped once or twice tops. Chicken, turkey, game – those can only be flipped once or twice, but I prefer to err on the side of caution with them. Potatoes, corn, eggplant, squash, pineapple – all taste great on the grill, and can give a simple, yet unique touch to your cookout. A brick oven isn’t much different than a grill. Both can be used to make fantastic pizzas.
    Also, don’t use any chemically-treated wood, like firestarter logs or plywood for a cookout. Some of that is treated with arsenic, handy for killing bugs and French generals. Stick with bags of hickory, mesquite or applewood from your local grocery, hardware or barbecue store. Do not use leftover wood from your new deck. Also, don’t use your old deck, either.
    5) “Hot Sauce” – Thomas Dolby – Those roadside barbecue shacks sell ribs, brisket and pulled meats, and never filets, sirloins or prime ribs. Many of them sell bottles of their sauce and spices. That’s because the best barbecue is generally made from the cheapest meats, and a fair amount of seasoning and sauce helps bring out the flavor. I prefer to get sauces and spice rubs that are affiliated with restaurants – Rockland’s sauce is much better than any store brand, and most stores in the area carry some products from Stubb’s in Austin, Texas; Sticky Fingers from Memphis, Tennessee, or even Gates in Kansas City, Missouri. A good rub and sauce combo from one of these places is a guaranteed home run.
    Hope this helps you tap your inner Raichlen.

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  • 04Jun

    champagne2.JPGAs if I don’t talk your e-ears off about this already: Gourmet Girls is my collective dinner party group. Every month, we gather in one of our kitchens and cook a complicated, multi-course meal together, learning how to prepare each dish in between sips (and sometimes glugs) of wine. (That was us in the Washington
    Post a few weeks ago.
    ) If this sounds like fun to you, and you’re interested in being a part of a Gourmet Girls group in DC, come to Happy Hour at Ceiba (701 14th Street NW) from 6-8 on Tuesday, June 12th. (Look in the bar, hee. )

    Permalink Filed under: Etc 1 Comment
  • 04Jun

    bamianlogo.jpgI tend to think of myself as a pretty well-rounded eater (commentary on my waistline aside), but somehow Afghan cooking hadn’t yet made it into my repertoire. That changed a few Sundays ago, when I stopped by Bamian Restaurant in Falls Church.
    Expecting a casual atmosphere, my guest and I were surprised to open the door of the stark, unassuming-looking restaurant on Leesburg Pike and be greeted by the sight of waiters in tuxedos, white tablecloths and a live musician. We actually headed right back out the door, feeling underdressed and underfunded, but a kind, cajoling host convinced us to give the place a try.
    Good thing we took his advice – we were lead to an intimate table that was almost a room in itself; it reminded me of the more private alcoves in places like The Melting Pot, without giving off the kind of forced romantic vibe the chain can create. A friendly waiter gave us a few helpful suggestions, and our food was on its way within moments.
    It can be challenging finding the combination of classy atmosphere, affordable prices and delicious cuisine, but I wasn’t disappointed with any element at Bamian. Mantu, a dumpling of sorts with spiced meat, yogurt and mint, was a savory way to start the meal. I was impressed with my guest’s order of Chef Carrayee, an assertively-flavored chicken dish that tasted vaguely of cilantro. But the night’s crowning achievement was the Quabili Palau, which I ordered. Whether it be the perfectly cooked rice, the rich meat sauce on the side, the impossibly tender pieces of lamb, or the heaping, sweet addition of carrots and raisins, it was a wonderful combination of flavors I’d never experienced before. The Afghan nan (very similar to the Indian bread) was also first rate.
    Bamian’s prices seem almost shockingly reasonable when taking into account the food and setting – for two entrees, two (non-alcoholic) beverages and an appetizer, the bill totaled around $40. I’d almost like to keep the place a secret, but considering I opened my Washingtonian this month and saw it mentioned in the lead of the Cheap Eats article, I doubt it will remain empty for long. For a first taste of Afghan cuisine, I couldn’t have hoped for a better initiation.
    Bamian Restaurant
    5634 Leesburg Pike
    Falls Church, Virginia 22041
    703/820-7880

  • 23May

    schnozbot.bmp
    Schnozbot is a list of DC Area happy hour specials. It can be searched by area or day of the week. It includes food specials like free paella at La Tasca on Fridays, and the wing nights at Rockbottom on Mondays and Hard Times Cafe on Wednesdays. Some wings would smell good about now! 🙂

    Permalink Filed under: Etc 4 Comments
  • 22May

    pork taco resize.JPG
    I recently followed up on Taqueria Nacionale. The soft tacos were less stiff. I tried two different tacos, the pork tacos, which have onions and peppers, and the chicken tacos, which have onions. I also ordered the rice, which has tomato in it. It really does seem like they are getting their act together, since the food was tasty, and the wait was not as long.
    Oh, thanks “Taco Boy” for your comments on my original taco article. Yes, the Mexican cokes are good. I’ve even located the bottle opener in my office. 🙂
    Taqueria Nacionale
    444 N. Capitol Street
    Washington, DC 20001

  • 21May

    Where should you be tomorrow night?
    Enjoying a nice Viking beer at D.C.’s best Scandinavian D.J. night, of course.
    Check out Hej Hej, DJed by our own DJ Natalya and DCFUD-friend DJ Melissa, who also writes excellent food reviews for the Washington Blade. There will be lots of cool Swedish, Finnish, Norwegian, Danish, and Icelandic music that we’ve never heard of but is all very good and very dance-able.
    And, even better, there will be drink specials on Reyka vodka. How can you say no?
    So come to Cafe Saint Ex, downstairs, on Tuesday, May 22 at 10 pm.
    We’ll be there. You should be, too.

  • 21May

    Beer.jpgWhen the menu at your local beer-house proclaims: “Not available in Georgia [insert your home state/town/country here], but we got some,” with no further description, you kinda have to try it, especially at $5 a bottle.
    The pretty bottle depicts members of Louis XIV’s Carugbab-Sallières regimen, presumably marching off to slaughter the Iroquois, but don’t let that detail put you off. Similarly, don’t let the thick black color of this brew put you off, if you’re not usually a dark-beer person (and don’t expect a “Dark” beer either). Unibroue’s Chambly Noire is surprisingly light in body and refreshing in flavor, despite its coloring.
    The head is a wispy caramel, more like a crema than proper head, hinting at what’s below – a subtle caramel-coffee nose with hints of citrus and hops, followed by a beautiful, subtle, medium-bodied drink. The sweet caramel flavor dominates the palette at first, but dissolves soon to a citrusy flavor and a spicy, nutty finish.
    A special treat for those who might never have tried it (“it’s not available in Georgia”), but for those in more civilized areas, it should be a delicious staple. Unibroue recommends drinking it with grilled fish or smoked meats, and it did go wonderfully with my burger!

  • 15May

    belly-dancing.jpgI first went to Marrakesh (the restaurant on New York Ave, not the city), about two years ago, drawn by the spectacle rather than the food. Marrakesh is not so much about dinner as it is about dinner theatre–a beautiful space, belly dancers, waiters who hand you hot towels and pour mint tea from on high in the Moroccan style–and consequently the food was sort of…meh. I mentally checked off that restaurant from my list, figured I’d never go again, and forgot about it.
    But. Last night I attended a group dinner there, again drawn by the spectacle and the good company, and found to my delight that the food had improved. The dinner consisted of seven courses, five of which were worth learning how to make at home. The roast chicken with lemon and olives was tender and juicy, with snappy crisp skin and just enough fat to be difficult to eat with one’s hands, but still worth the great trouble. The lamb was heavy, but fall-apart tender and flavorful. The pastry was flaky and buttery and sweet, and, wonderfully, included almonds instead of walnuts or pistachios. (I have a nut allergy, so it is possible that all Moroccan pastry is this good, and I just never knew.) The Moroccan wine (sold only by the carafe/bottle) was also better than expected–smooth and fruity and lingering.
    The place is still about the spectacle more than the food, so I’m not going to advise you to rush out and try it again as soon as possible. But if you haven’t been lately and think it’s not so great, eventually, do give it another try. I hope you get the same belly dancer we did. Wow.)

  • 14May


    Come in, shop happy! After spending the past few weeks trying to get their too-catchy-to-be-ignored, too-kitchy-to-be-respected reworking of the Partridge Family’s “Come On, Get Happy” removed from my conscious, I finally broke down and went into a Bloom grocery store. Since it was Mother’s Day, it only seemed fitting for the Five Paragraph Bitter Food Mother to tag along as well. After a relaxing day of pancakes in Rockville and coffee in Frederick, we spotted a couple of Blooms, and the two of us went in to see if the most annoying commercial song since “Empire Today” was worth the pain. We didn’t see any choreographed dancers, and no background music, but we did find a lot to like about the store.
    From the folks who brought you Food Lion, Bloom’s goal is to concentrate on freshness, offering an easy-to-shop, upscale layout. To call Bloom upscale, though, is a bit of a misnomer – this is not even close to the gourmet mass of Wegman’s, or the organic sensibilities of Whole Foods – though it is better looking and better stocked than parent Food Lion. The store offers a good-sized prepared foods section for the busy shopper on the go. The basics – chicken, ribs, cold cut sandwiches, mac & cheese – are next to the more sophisticated – paninis, salads, sushi – are all displayed next to a nice, if not spectacular, deli. The bakery is loaded with surprises, featuring dozens of muffins, breads, cookies, no-bakes and fudges. The 5PBFM was shocked to see potato candy, a beloved fixture of her youth, made fresh in the store.
    The produce section shines with a dazzling array of vegetables and fruits, many from local suppliers, arranged in well-labeled bins. Nearly a dozen different types of apples sit near such oddities like brocoflour, and a mix-and-match area of chili peppers. The whole produce area is washed in a Rainforest Cafe’– inspired environment. The walls shimmer with lighting effects, and small speakers pipe in the sounds of nature. It’s supposed to give the effect of getting the produce straight from the farm, but the constant sound and impression of water just triggered my bladder response. Wisely, there’s a clean restroom right around the corner. Apparently, I’m not the only one susceptible to such stimuli.
    The meat section was pretty typical, with prices about 80% of Harris-Teeter, 90% of what Giant and Safeway offers, and roughly the same as Shopper’s and Magruders. The seafood section was nicely stocked, again at 90% of Giant and Safeway prices, but with a higher quality and better selection than the typical Shopper’s. The wine and beer sections were quite large, with special end-caps for local vineyards and breweries – apparently Bloom is trying to be a good corporate neighbor. The international sections were solid, and the baking supplies section showed their Southern roots with all sorts of fillings, chips, glazes and sweeteners. The spice section was as loaded as any store I’ve seen, and barbecue fans will love the range of sauces, rubs and supplies.
    Basically, Bloom is a cleaner, newer Food Lion. It has some great touches – portable price scanners, online shopping lists, hand sanitizers for the grocery carts, recipe stations – that other stores will no doubt incorporate. Those who view Club Discount Cards like John Goodman views salad will like Bloom’s lack of of them. Buy One, Get One Free discounts and savings are open to all shoppers. The store has some drawbacks, though. The low aisle height makes the bellowing of screaming children reverberate in the store like The Three Tenors in a shower stall. In an odd design twist, the store aisles are mostly run north-south, and then several turn 90 degrees, creating plenty of hot cart-on-cart collisions. Plus, Bloom seems to view The Beltway as its 38th Parallel, refusing to enter the urban landscape as the closest stores are in Rockville, Accoceek, Laurel, Fairfax and Chantilly. However, given the amount of advertising they’re spending on the market, I can’t imagine it won’t be much longer before those of us inside 495 will be wandering the aisles, trying to get that damned song out of our collective head. Come in, shop happy… *grumble*
    ********************************************************************************************************
    Bloom earns 7 out of 10 possible Whammies!; a solidly above-average score for being a solidly above-average grocery store. It’s clean, reasonably priced, great produce section, and it’s got some nice consumer touches. It’s also not nearly as upscale as its marketing would lead you to believe, and it doesn’t have the large amount of loss leaders that smart shoppers know to target. It’s not worth the drive like a Wegman’s or a sweaty Metro haul like Whole Foods, but it’s definitely a nice touch for our ex-urban neighbors, and should provide a real challenge to established chains like Safeway and Giant in the region.
    *********************************************************************************************************

    Permalink Filed under: Stores 3 Comments
  • 13May

    Circa.pngSound the trumpets and break out the confetti, the Dupont eatery for which we’ve been waiting five long, hungry years has finally arrived. When signs for Circa first showed up at the location of the ill-fated Wrap Works I know I couldn’t have been the only one holding my breath; mid-range options in the area have long been limited to waiting in line for Raku or settling for Bistro Du Coin, (french in only the bad aspects of the term). And while the recent arrival of Hanks Oyster Bar two blocks east has alleviated the misery somewhat, it’s still not the type of place hungry tourists and CEO’s alike could stop off after work.
    Well, Circa is. Mild-mannered coffee bar and café by day, mild-mannered restaurant and wine bar by night, someone heard my fevered prayers. Dressed in dark wood, the newly redone location at the corner of Connecticut and Q boasts a crazy sound system, comfortable chairs, a nice outdoor patio, and absolutely lovely staff to match. The long communal bar table is perfect for breaking out the laptop to leach off the free wifi while soaking up something from their 1500-strong wine locker.
    A recent lunchtime visit brought an excellent grilled shrimp salad to my table, as well as one of the best bacon burgers I’ve had the privilege to absorb. Any earlier and there would have been muffins and coffee; a little later and I might have tried what I swear sound like bangers and mash, Lobster ravioli, and Scottish smoked salmon as part of their late night menu.
    With hours from 6 am to 2am, could it be that Kramers is about to lose its stranglehold on Dupont’s late night food scene? I sure as hell hope so.

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