• 22Nov

    chile.gifI must confess that Chile has been on my mind lately. Not the food. The distant string bean-shaped country where I spent my study abroad. Maybe it’s because I’ve taken up Latin dancing again. Maybe it’s because I’ve been serving up my Chilean favorites at my parties and my guests have been, well, eating them up.
    One of them, DCFUD’s own Mad Rambler Jason, encouraged me to take on a daunting culinary task (at least for me): write out the recipes for my Latin creations. One of my specialties has always been tomaticán, a traditional, spicy Chilean dish. Tomaticán –and just about any other Chilean dish – is often paired with pisco sour, a concoction made with pisco, the Chilean national drink. I’ve come up with my own twist for both food and drink and am printing them the first time for DCFudies.
    PORTER SIRLOIN TOMATICAN
    (makes six – eight servings)

    • 17 Roma tomatoes (chopped)
    • 1 can of whole peeled tomatoes (approximately 28 oz.)
    • 3 cans of whole kernel corn (approximately 15 oz)
    • 1 heaping tbsp pepper.
    • 3 large yellow onions (chopped)
    • 1 ¾ lb of porter sirloin steak (chopped)

    Start by tossing the chopped tomatoes in a large pot. Add the whole peeled tomatoes and pepper. Tomaticán is supposed to be hot and spicy. So if you don’t get enough of a hot foot when tasting it, add more pepper to your liking. Let the tomatoes simmer on medium for about five minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the corn and onions. Let the pot simmer for about five more minutes and continue to stir. Add the chopped sirloin and lower the temperature to low. Heat the tomaticán for 15 minutes (or until the sirloin is cooked), then remove from the stove. Voila … now it’s onto the pisco sour.
    PISCO SOUR MAPUCHE
    (makes eight servings)
    The Mapuche were known to the Spaniards as the fierce Indian tribe that inhabited Chile during the Age of Discovery. The Mapuche more than gave the Spaniards a run for their money, they held them off and the Europeans never defeated them. You could say the Mapuche really gave the Iberians a kick in the – well you get the idea. This drink is a homage of sorts to the Mapuche, who still may be found in Central and Southern Chile. Most people make pisco with lemon juice. I make it with lime. Before you get grossed out by the idea of using egg whites in a drink just remember that it’s not much different idea than eggnog. If the thought of putting raw eggs in your drink grosses you out. Then use Egg Beater egg whites like I do).

    • 12 oz pisco
    • 6 oz limejuice
    • 8 tbsp egg white
    • 8 tbsp sugar
    • 1 lime flavored cherry (per glass of pisco sour Mapuche, after drink is poured.
    • 13 chocolate chips.
    • 15 ice cubes
    • 6 oz Code Red Mountain Dew

    To make the drink add all ingredients to a blender. Blend until the ice is chopped and white foam is floating to the top. Pour six to eight ounce of the pisco mix in a glass and add one lime-flavored cherry. You’re all set for a Chilean dinner party. Dinner is usually served close to 8 PM in Chile, but I usually can’t wait that late. Dine when your guests arrive.
    This post is by Guest Bogger Jay D. Krasnow. Thanks Jay!

    Permalink Filed under: Recipes 1 Comment
  • 18Nov

    clams.jpg
    As I mentioned before, the boy and I attended a “Cooking for Two” class at L’Academie de Cuisine recently, which was my anniversary present. (He’s good, huh? Make your girlfriend a) squeal with excitement AND b) a better cook!) I chose the seafood-themed class, as I am a sucker for …well, anything with suckers, and the menu looked unbeatable: clams casino, honey-cured grilled salmon steaks, and a crab and corn chowder. Oh, and FLAN, because fish belongs everywhere except dessert. Yes, you can quote me on that.
    Now, L’Academie runs a professional school, but we had signed up for the recreational one, so we stroll in to the chem-labish classroom at the Bethesda location right at the appointed time, expecting a relaxed evening of chopping and stirring and savoring lovely smells like we do at home. FYI for anyone planning to sign up for a class there: “recreational” is not the same as “relaxing.” Oh, no.
    Don’t get me wrong. You will absolutely love it, but you’ll be lucky to keep up with the instructor for the first hour of the three-hour class. She will show you how to stuff a clam (with the aforementioned compound butter), and you had better do it NOW, because soon as she’s done, she’s showing your partner how to “walk” a knife through an onion. Not that she was rude about it; she just worked fast and wanted us to learn as much as we could. (One small problem–if you don’t do exactly as the instructor says, an assistant may come over and do it for you. I practically had to wrestle my knife out the hands of a very sweet woman who started out showing me how big the pieces of celeriac should be, and then tried to chop all my root vegetables for me.)
    After the first hour or so everything slows down, the assistants pour the wine, and THEN you get to relax and savor lovely smells (for awhile, until the next big rush). They will do some things for you, but these were all small things that would have been impractical in large groups but easy enough in your own kitchen (for instance, we didn’t get to mix our own marinades for the salmon steaks). Everything else is done at your workstation by you and your partner, including, of course, the eating. I think that was most people’s favorite part, but mine was all the actual cooking, with the boy, of course. Chop! Stuff! Grill! Roast! Do dates get any better than this? I doubt it. (Unless you stuff them with gorgonzola.)

    Permalink Filed under: Etc No Comments
  • 17Nov

    eatzisgone.JPG
    One less reason to chug up Wisconsin Avenue in Rockville – convenient gourmet food and wine shop Eatzi’s is closing its doors with little-to-no-warning, just in time to ruin many a Thanksgiving dinner. Today might be the last day the charming place north of White Flint Mall has left, as management and staff were notified of the closure yesterday.
    I’m sure there will be more to this story, and hopefully the displaced staff can find work at other local markets – though Eatzi’s relative convenience to Metro rail and bus routes will be hard to replace.
    Geez, former Eatzi’s folks….happy holidays? Good luck in getting new gigs.

  • 16Nov

    AcadianaLogo.jpgI have been putting off the review of Acadiana. What started as minor procrastination has now turned into a full blown case of denial. Why can’t I remember what I ate? Did I even go? Fact is, while great spots are easy to write up, and really bad ones are even easier, I’m not really sure what to say when the restaurant is neither. It’s tough to do a review based off the fact that the calorie consumption within its premises allowed you to live one more day.
    As the latest effort from the rapidly expanding Passion Food empire, Acadiana arrived a year ago with the road well-paved. DC Coast and Ten Penh are both reasonably tasty staples, and the lovely Ceiba is still where I take out-of-town relatives lookin’ for latin. But for a small town, we do already have Vidalia, B. Smith’s, Georgia Brown, Indigo Landing, and even the new Crème …did DC really need another neo-Southern place? Well, definitely- I mean, you really can’t have too many versions of this awesome cuisine- but I find this iteration to be forgettable.
    The interior is pretty and subdued in grey and wood… with diner-style booths. Which means the general effect is of a very elegant TGI Friday’s. The service was almost unnervingly alert. The best taste of the night came at the very beginning – amg fared well with a Mint Julep and I with a tasty Sazerac (a mix of, among other things, fake absinthe and whiskey) which, come to think of it, might have something to do with my poor memory of the rest of the night. Did we order wine then? I think so, but who knows! It must have been the Sazerac.
    The trio of soups – turtle, crab, and gumbo, were acceptable with the crab’s crunchy corn and hearty flavor winning the bunch. On suggestion, the fried green tomatoes were delicate and delicious, although I’m not sure I’d bother ordering them again. A trio of deviled eggs were fabulous, but only because I bloody adore deviled eggs. A less biased head would probably rate them at on par with very nice wedding Hors d’ Oeuvres.
    Jeff Tunks has never gotten the hang of main courses, so I usually stock up on appetizers and split an entrée. It was a special; this time there’s a memory of an enjoyable whitefish in…sauce. I can’t tell you more ’cause I just don’t know. Come on Acadiana, there’s potential here but you need to give me something I’m still going to remember three weeks later.

  • 15Nov

    IMG_6079.JPGChocolate is the new coffee, stated the girl across the table from me, and I had to agree. What Seattle yuppies did for America’s taste in coffee, and Whole Foods did for everything else, someone, even as we speak, must be doing for chocolate.

    When did it happen? Certainly some time before Max Brenner of Chocolate by the Bald Man brought his first chocolate café’s to NYC. And well before Lindt declared chocolate tasting on par with wine tasting with its sophisticated Excellence 99% Cacao Noirissme chocolate bar in 2005. In fact, by the time that Hershey recently jumped on the bandwagon with their belated and dubious Cacao Reserve line, the concept was already in danger of becoming mainstream. Where once we had pharmacy racks of gritty brown wax, now for the first time we have solid organic tablets that snap when you break them, and liquor-infused balls of rich, melting ganache.

    And that was how I found myself sitting in Stout, an absolutely terrible midtown sports bar, picking at a salad, trying to stave off what can only be called a ‘sugar hangover’. The last 24 hours had been spent wallowing in the Ninth Annual Chocolate Show in New York, a testament and showcase to America’s slow maturation of chocolate taste.

    For three days this last weekend, those willing to wait in the three hour line were rewarded with chocolate sculptures and chocolate cosmetics, and representatives of the Ivory Coast. Demonstration kitchens allowed pastry chefs like Bill Corbett of Dona to show off their chocolate recipes, while the kiddies tried chocolate painting. And yes, there was a fashion show of chocolate clothing, and tastings of bizarre concoctions like chocolate and mushroom bars, and chocolate book signings, and there was even one lone chocolate cupcake vendor, but none of that really mattered because what people really come for is the chocolate exhibitors.

     

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    The Chocolate Show is the J-date of the brand-name chocolate distribution world. If it’s a small chocolatier’s dream to someday be picked up by Dean and Deluca or Whole Foods, this is the place to make it happen.

    Some of them already have; most of the high-class bars in Aisle 10 were first discovered here. And that means the urgent explanations and smiles at each booth weren’t just from lack of bathroom breaks; each carefully sliced sample had the potential to turn into a business card and a steady supply contract. For a small artisnal chocolate maker, that means a lifeline of money to develop into a larger artisanal chocolate maker, hopefully without sacrificing the artisanal part.
    Copy of IMG_6100.JPG

    But with so many exhibitors, hopeful tasters didn’t need the to be a corporate scout to tell the incredible from the merely brown. Good chocolate should be crisp and flavorful, smooth and glossy, with no trace of grittiness. It should melt on minimal contact and leave no bitter aftertaste. A perfect example: show standout Rechiuti, serving up plate after plate of jasmine and raspberry truffle slices, swapping business cards and promises to talk further almost as fast as they sold their $5 mini-boxes.

    At Serendipitea the samples of fragrant chocolate tea infusions spilled out across the table, while next door, Sweetriot waved around signs and chocolate-covered cacao nibs. As the new cool thing, tea flavoring was also the theme at L.A. Burdick Chocolate where a tea-infused dark chocolate sat next to glossy catalogs and small white chocolate penguins and mice. On the other side of the hall, Gustaux distributed some truly outstanding simple truffles, and Romanico’s Chocolate bravely touted it’s low-sugar version.

    Those taking a break from pure chocolate could buy a perfectly spiced fig dipped to look like a pumpkin from John and Kira’s, or try desert wine tasting from the ever-pleasing Quady liquors. Not cutting-edge enough? Coppeneur offered small, crunchy cocoa pods dusted with chili powder.

     

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    Some of the better-known manufacturers were already reaping the benefits of a larger operation and brand name; the Japanese chocolatiers Mary’s attracted an absolutely rabid crowd. By early Saturday afternoon they had sold out of golden sesame and sweet potato truffles; and their black sesame seed and green tea ganache was rapidly disappearing. Behind the protective glass, harried pastry chefs struggled to fill orders of their popular seasonal flower line – violet, Japanese plum, lily of the valley, and iris.

    For minimalist quality, the strong favorite in pure chocolate seemed to be Felchlin, with their hand-collected wild cocoa bars retailing at $20 each. Closely following them in taste and popularity, Michel Cluizel Chocolates traded their spicy, full bodied samples and catalogs in equal numbers.

    I stumbled from the Metropolitan Pavilion in a stupor, vitamin deficient and babbling of cocoa consistency and flavor infusions. Luckily, there was time to find a salad before the inevitable sugar crash and coma set in.

     

    Much thanks to fud writers AMG and JAY for being good sports.

    -ZAF

  • 13Nov

    turkey-planet.jpg
    Thanksgiving is less than ten short days away. It’s a time for many of us to go back to our hometowns, eat a nice dinner with our family and sit down to converse with our loved ones next to a roaring fireplace.
    Sure…if you were born in a greeting card.
    Truth be told, most of us shove copious amounts of poorly-cooked food down our gullets, play some football with Uncle Mel and his 5 demon offspring in the front yard, sit in uncomfortable silence as Aunt Louise decides that now – during the halftime show of the Cowboys’ game – is the time to come out of the closet in front of a completely unshocked family, but much to the dismay of Grandma, who just thinks she hasn’t found the right man yet, and then plan on waking up at 5 in the morning to take advantage of the Black Friday specials at the mall.
    OK, maybe that’s just my brood, but, let’s face it, lots of us have families less like the Huxtables and more like the Griswolds. And our Thanksgiving dinners have more in common with Paula Zahn than Paula Dean. So, here’s a quick survival guide for Thanksgiving `06.
    1) Let the neighborhood grocery store do the cooking for you. Giant, Magruder’s, Wegman’s , Shopper’s, Bloom – they can all prepare a meal for you and your guests, ready to heat and serve on Thanksgiving Day. It’s often a little bit pricier than making it yourself, but, it’s also a lot less prep work and clean-up time. If you want something a little less traditional, try swinging by the local Asian market, like Great Wall off Gallows Road, for a roasted duck or crispy fish.
    2) If the idea of Safeway cooking your bird frightens you, at least follow their recipe. The Two-Hour method of cooking a turkey is a fantastic way to ensure a crispy skin and juicy meat, and still make it thoroughly cooked. Gone are the days of slow-roasting a bird all Wednesday night to eat Thursday afternoon – just follow Safeway’s handy reference chart to match the cooking time with the size of your turkey.
    My only suggestion would be to use a heavy-duty cooking bag. This will trap in the juices from the meat and will make your broiling pan a lot easier to clean.
    Plus, don’t stuff your stuffing in the bird. It slows down the cooking process for both the stuffing and the turkey, and can spread bacteria. Simply use a baking pan separate from the turkey to cook your glorified Stove-Top.
    3) Just go out for dinner. McCormick and Schmick’s locations serve a legendary Thanksgiving spread, as do several of the downtown hotels and restaurants. This might also be a great time to get prime seats in a hot ethnic eatery. Remember that Thanksgiving evening is a big going-out night, and that many bars will fill up with folks who’ve had about as much family as they can handle for the day. Get your grub early, and you should be fine.
    And, if you need to go home and have zero control over the meal…
    4) Remember that xanax is not just for breakfast anymore. Sneak a pack of Ramen noodles in your suitcase, and dress it up with some of the more edible leftovers.
    When you get back to the area, stop off at Summer’s by the Courthouse Metro. Besides being a fine place to watch both football and futbol, they make one of the finest turkey burgers you’ll ever have. Perfectly seasoned, not over-cooked – when was the last time anybody gushed over a turkey burger? This is one seriously good sandwich, and should be enough to cure your turkey jones.

  • 13Nov

    butter.jpgA couple of weeks ago, the boy and I attended a “Cooking for Two” class at L’Academie de Cuisine. I’ll be posting more on that later, but first, here’s the most important thing we learned; the highest and best use of your freezer….
    Compound butter. It’s butter, bacon, garlic, shallots, and parmesan cheese, all mixed together. You can whip up a batch in ten minutes, then you stick it in the freezer and cut off hunks of it for literally whatever you want. So far I have had it on a baguette, and also mixed it with rosemary and stuffed it under the skin of a roasting chicken. The instructor at L’Academie also recommended we melt it and toss it in cooked pasta. I plan to never be without it again.
    2 sticks softened, salted butter
    At least half a cup of parmesan cheese
    1 shallot, finely chopped
    3 strips bacon, cooked until crisp and finely chopped
    2 cloves garlic (use a press)
    Mash it all up, then stick it all in a food processor if you like. I didn’t, and the texture was fine. Also, I didn’t use salted butter, so I had to toss some salt in later.

  • 09Nov

    urbana logo_hp.gifSomeone with Savant Syndrome might be able to tell you on what day of the week the civil war started and then count back from it in prime numbers, but might not be able to tie her own shoes. If you fall into this category, there may be a position open for you at Urbana Restaurant and Wine bar. How else can we explain somewhere so perfectly beautiful, with such incredible wine, such absolutely lovely servers, such tasty appetizers… and such disappointing entrees?
    I had been here a number of times before to luxuriate in the bar, a low, warm room filled with velvet pillows and couches. To call its design ‘pretty’ misses a perfectly good opportunity to use the word ‘Voluptuous’. There I munched my way through an scallop ceviche and a roast quail with wild mushrooms on what seemed to be a light pumpkin casserole. I washed it down with a cinnimony qupe syrah and thought that life was pretty damn good.
    A week later, when finally sitting down at one of Urbana’s wooden dining room tables, both appetizers were still as perfect as calculating pi to the nth decimal place. But the only other success of the evening was an acceptable pork chop with Brussel Sprouts. Both orders of the lobster pasta were overdone and the carpaccio was uninteresting. The duck fat fries promised something outrageous; instead they were just a reminder that horse is really the way to go if you want to advertise an unusual frying agent. Gordon Biersch has better.
    The wine was great, but there was a little trepidation in ordering it. Perhaps it was only our night, but the waiters seemed to be having an unusually difficult time in keeping things upright. Every five minutes there was a crash from the kitchen or bar area; the sound of splintering china was practically this meal’s soundtrack. At one point, a tray of airborn glassware jumped ship near our table to soak everyone’s back.
    A plum tart was alright; in fact, the whole meal would have been fine had it not been for the hefty price tag. As it was, we were left with a vague feeling that we’d been the victim of a bait-and-switch… And wet blouses.

  • 08Nov

    071814581X.01._AA240_SCLZZZZZZZ_V65555398_.jpgJew Food! It ain’t just matzo balls and …more matzoh! And while that doesn’t discount the possibility that it may be just latkes, Claudia Roden thinks otherwise. And to prove it, she’s speaking (and possibly demo-ing?) at the DC JCC about her latest book Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon.
    Disclaimer: I was given a copy of her lovely “The Book of Jewish Food” when I moved into my first apartment. I still get all faklempt thinking about it. So.
    Claudia Roden on Cuisine and Culture
    Tuesday, November 14th, 7:30pm

    Washington DCJCC (16th and Q st., NW)
    For tickets, see nextbook.org or call 888-219-5222.

    Permalink Filed under: Etc 1 Comment
  • 07Nov

    Jason 2319r.jpg
    Ok…I have had chocolate on my mind this week. This is probably because I’ll be in New York City for the Chocolate Show this weekend, as will fellow DCFUDies ZAF and AMG.
    So…what did having chocolate on the brain mean this weekend? I dragged a couple of friends into Churreria Madrid in Adams Morgan for churros con chocolate, which consists of a plate of doughnuts and a cup of hot chocolate to dunk them in. These are not long straight churros like Mexican or Argentine churros. The churros are what I remember from visiting Spain, but the hot chocolate is actually thicker there. Churros con chocolate are still a nice treat though.
    The restaurant has entrees and tapas…and maybe I’ll try them sometime. For now, I sit on the main floor at the bar tables and dunk away. They do have an upstairs dining room as well.
    Churreria Madrid
    2505 Champlain Street NW
    Washington, DC
    202 483-4441

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