• 19Oct

    garlicnsapp.jpgJust for the record, the Read Before You Eat list currently stands at 5:
    Kitchen Confidential- Anthony Bourdain
    Hey Waitress- Alison Owings
    The Man Who Ate Everything- Jeffrey Steingarten
    Salt- Mark Kurlansky
    What Einstein Told His Cook- Robert L. Wolke
    Well, I know it’s already been out for 6 months, but Garlic and Sapphires by Ruth Reichl has just made the cut by successfully making me re-think every single restaurant meal I’ve ever sat down to.
    No, really. You may have liked the little apology canapés that the kitchen sent you last time the server spilled your drink, but compared to the royal treatment given to food critics, that’s Purina. The service gets better. The wait gets shorter. Even the size of the berries in the desert gets bigger. As the food critic for the New York Times, Reichl’s recognizable face meant that she had to use fake names, credit cards, wigs, and stage makeup to extract fair reviews.
    She even manages to avoid the saccharine Oprah-isms that mar her previous two books, Tender at the Bone and Comfort Me With Apples (which are both otherwise fabulous, by the way)… till the very last chapter. At that point you might as well just scan for plot. It’s hard to criticize what is basically a memoir for becoming too self-centered, but even so, some of the symbolism that she reads into her costumes smacks of angst.
    That aside, this is probably the best book I can think of to throw some light on the seedy world of high-level restaurant reviewing. You will finish it wondering if there are actually two different restaurants inhabiting every dining space: the one the reviewers are experiencing, and the one the rest of us go to. The result is something like a culinary cross between Black Like Me and The Truman Show.

  • 18Oct

    fat_duck_bray.jpgWe’re a bit dated in covering this, but we hope you’ll forgive us once you start salivating over it. In April of this year, Britain’s Restaurant magazine released the results from their annual survey of chefs, food journalists, and restaurant owners and produced the “global 50 Best Restaurants.” You can see the entire list here or here.
    A brief sampling of the best:

    1. The Fat Duck – Bray United Kingdom
    2. El Bulli Roses – Spain
    3. French Laundry – Yountville, Calif. United States
    4. Tetsuya’s – Sydney Australia
    5. Gordon Ramsay – London United Kingdom
    6. Pierre Gagnaire – Paris France
    7. Per Se – New York United States
    8. Tom Aikens – London United Kingdom
    9. Jean Georges – New York United States
    10. St John – London United Kingdom

    We’re definitely not among most affluent eaters, so we haven’t eaten at any of the restaurants (though we’ve been dying to try French Laundry), but we couldn’t help notice that the vast majority of the restaurants are in London, New York, and Paris, making us wonder if the survey population was a bit biased.
    Has anyone out there tried any of these restaurants? And are there any you think are missing that haven’t been included?

  • 17Oct

    ledo.gif
    Thanks, DCist, for this heads up – Ledo Pizza will be celebrating its 50th Anniversary by giving away FREEEEEEEEE pies all day today. If you’re Bethesda-accessible, what are you waiting for? The mozzarella is calling!

  • 14Oct

    tinytim.gifIt’s the moment you’ve all been waiting for! If by all I mean, like, three of you.
    The Post unveiled Tom Sietsema’s latest dining guide in today’s online edition (it will appear in Sunday’s print copy, I believe). The critic’s theme this year is “In The Mood”, attempting to find a restaurant for every occasion or whim.
    For regular readers of Tom’s weekly chats, most of the choices won’t be too surprising – after all, how many times have we heard him rave about 2 Amys or Buck’s Fishing and Camping? But the guide still remains a great one-glance stop when you’re trying to figure out what’s for dinner.

  • 05Oct

    enchilada.bmp I’m always on the lookout for a good shrimp enchilada. Despite being disappointed by most seafood/Mexican combinations I’ve tried when restaurant-hopping, I still hold out that someone’s going to blow me away. But whether it be the chain offerings at Chevy’s, or Alero’s bland attempt, I’ve yet to be impressed.
    But when I went to Mexicali Blues in Clarendon Friday night, I was pleasantly surprised that their take on the dish was a little unique and definitely delicious. The enchiladas are served in an orange-colored, creamy sauce that really makes the meal. Portion sizes are sufficient, but not overdone. The rest of our trip was less impressive – slow service, mediocre mojitos, pupusas that can’t hold a candle to Samantha’s – but loved those enchiladas.
    Has anyone encountered a more deserving candidate for the Best Shrimp Enchilada crown?

  • 02Oct

    nocafe.jpgFrom the DCFUD mailbox, a reader writes in with an important question:

    I have to make a big New Orleans dinner for a fundraiser. Do you know where I can buy good andouille in DC? Is there a bakery that sells beignets and King Cake? And can a gumbo or jambalaya be made ahead of time, in whole or part? Any information you might want to share would be so much appreciated – the fundraiser is for my son, who lost his house, car, everything but the shirt off his back.

    For andouille, we recommend checking out Whole Foods or Wegmans. As for a gumbo or jambalaya recipe, we don’t have any great ones, but we bet some of our readers have some great recipes and recommendations.
    As for us, whenever we’re craving jambalaya, gumbo, or beignets, we head over to the best creole restaurant in the city, if not on the entire east coast: Bardia’s New Orleans Cafe. I’d imagine they’d be happy to sell their beignets and jambalaya in bulk, especially for a fund raiser. Bardia’s is located at 2412 18th Street NW in Adams Morgan, and they can be reached at 202-234-0420.
    Any other suggestions out there from our readers? Feel free to post in the comments below or, if you’d rather, contact us directly via email.
    Image courtesy The Georgetown Hoya.

  • 30Sep

    news.jpgSometimes when you go to a restaurant, you wonder if your experience there is all about mindset. The first time I went to News Café in Georgetown, I had spent the day traipsing around Georgetown during the blizzard. My friends and I were starving and just looking for anything edible – with the less-than-authentic name, we expected serviceable Italian at best. We ended up with a delicious dining experience in a beautiful space (my love of wrought iron and maroon definitely endeared me to the decor).
    Somehow the night has been mythologized in our minds since then, and the same group of friends who hit it the first time decided to join me there again when in town for my birthday. And this time, our irrationally high expectations resulted in merely competent results.
    Our first trip featured a delicious Pinot Grigio recommended by the restaurant, perfectly light calamari, and three entrees we gobbled up eagerly. I enjoyed my crabmeat stuffed shrimp, accented with lemon; my sister gave raves to her prosciutto-topped veal, and we all were wowed by my friend Becky’s creamy pesto spinach fettucini with salmon, which was one of the night’s specials. In fact, I’d hoped that same special would be available this time around.
    News Café seems super-eager to keep its customers. They sent me a $10 gift certificate for my birthday (I neglected to read the weeknights-only fine print, so it will have to be used another time). They awarded my sister a coupon for free dessert for recommending the place to her friends, one of whom sat at our table with her own coupon for free chocolate covered strawberries.
    Celebrating my birthday and armed with our many coupons, the night was starting to feel like an event. And it still ended up an enjoyable one, if not as amazing as we’d expected.
    The $25 bottle of Pinot Grigio we ordered wasn’t as tasty as we’d remembered (inflated memories?), but that didn’t stop us from ordering two bottles of it. Our waitress wasn’t the cheerful, accommodating woman full of suggestions we’d had the last time, but she was certainly fine (though we were denied the use of one of our dessert coupons for no real reason). Fresh mozzarella and tomato was nothing overwhelming, but hit the spot. And man, that calamari was still tasty.
    But the entrees seemed a bit more mediocre. No complaints from my sister about her veal, but my tortellini with prosciutto was definitely too salty. A friend’s shrimp pesto pizza was a bit more bland and congealed than I’d like to see, though she enjoyed it. And sadly, no salmon pesto special available.
    But to be honest, if we hadn’t been expecting the moon, we probably would have been more than satisfied with our visit. So give News Cafe a shot – just don’t expect the meal of a lifetime.

  • 22Sep

    HomePage_08.gifSo, yes, there actually is a serious BBQ place in Chinatown. I hadn’t heard about it until I saw it on FoodTV, which was sort of surprising. Now I should put out the disclamer that I did not grow up in a BBQ area, nor have I actually seriously smoked anything in a smoker before. I have, however studied BBQ quite a bit, and have always sought out real BBQ. We should also define now that BBQ is not the same as grilling. BBQ to be is cooking a particular cut of meat over low temperatures (typically somewhere around 180 degrees, give or take), indirect heat, and smoke. Grilling is cooking over direct heat.
    So anyway, until now, the only place I’ve found halfway ok BBQ here in the DC area is Rocklands. Capital Q BBQ is located right next to Matchbox in a small, unassuming space in the middle of Chinatown. It’s a Texas BBQ place so most of the stuff they have is beef. I’m a pork BBQ guy myself, but I digress.
    I ordered the combo plate with three meats: pork ribs, brisket, and hot link (sausage). It’s served with your choice of two sides and either mild or spicy BBQ sauce. My observations:
    ~ Ribs: Surprisingly not good. I am one that likes texture and some chewiness in ribs. I know lots of people talk about falling-off-the-bone softness, but that doesn’t mean that the meat should be half-dissolved when you put it in your mouth. It was a very strange texture. I couldn’t tell if it was the sauce or if it was the ribs. They definitely had the smoke rings and whatnot, but they were just too soft. I much prefer dry ribs, anyway, and I’m not sure they there was any dry rub on the ribs anyway.
    ~ Brisket: Really nice. Very soft, tasted good, no real issues. I’m not a big brisket fan, but I would definitely go back for their brisket.
    ~ Hot link: Best damn hot link I’ve had since I left Chicago. It’s a pork sausage that’s been smoked and is really spicy. I am craving them already and want to go back.
    The two sides I got were:
    ~ Baked beans: I think it was because we got there to eat at 11:30am, but the beans were still a bit crunchy. Not good. But well-seasoned… I think if I would have showed up later in the day it would have been fine. Would eat them again.
    ~ Home fries: I thought these would be french fries, but they are proper home fries like you get at breakfast, i.e. sauteed cubes of potatoes.
    Portions were fairly large, overall the BBQ was good, but not the best. I think Rocklands’ ribs are better, but I want to go back already. Especially for their hot links.
    707 H Street, NW
    Washington, DC
    in the heart of Chinatown – 1 block from the MCI Center
    202-347-8396

  • 19Sep

    bloodymary.bmp Sometimes I think Sunday brunch is my favorite meal. It’s usually associated with friends, it’s well-priced and it has a leisurely pace unmatched even by the most luxurious dinners.
    My sister and I spent our lazy hazy Sunday this time around at Tallula in Arlington, and it had all the elements of a great brunch. Our waitress was friendly and laid-back, the Bloody Marys were spicy and the food was comforting. If my sister didn’t live in Pittsburgh, we could have a weekly tradition on our hands.
    While my sister went with the omelet ($8), I decided to go a bit more unusual and try the short ribs over cheesy grits (at $15, the most expensive selection on the reasonably-priced brunch menu). Though the spice factor of the sauce was a bit much with my peppery drink, it nevertheless was a breakfast that really woke me up. The rich grits were complimented by a green salsa, and the meat was as tender as you expect from a good pair of short ribs. I was less impressed with Mandy’s omelet and home fries, but I’m notoriously fussy about my restaurant eggs, and she enjoyed it heartily. We split a single biscuit with pancetta gravy ($3), and cursed ourselves for not getting our own orders of the rich, creamy dish.
    The atmosphere is low-key but elegant, with the sounds of the restaurant’s centerpiece-waterfall lulling you out of your cranky morning mood or pesky hangover. This won’t be the last time I start my Sunday at Tallula.

  • 14Sep

    ham.jpg There are certain things you just like to have in your neighborhood. A dive bar. Decent takeout food. And in my case, a great Italian deli.
    Luckily, I happen to live minutes from one of the area’s best, The Italian Store, on Lee Highway in Arlington. I’d heard good things, and my roommates implored me on Sunday to treat myself to one of their sandwiches. Let’s hope this isn’t the beginning of an addiction.
    I had a prosciutto and mozzarella sandwich with onion, tomato, vinegar, oil and oregano. It was heaven. With one bite, I was taken back to Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, where I spent my college years. The ingredients were fresh, the portions were generous, and the taste was authentic.
    But expect to wait for it. I grabbed a number and there ended up being a good 15 people in front of me, leaving enough time to browse the store, pick up a pumpkin spice frappucino from Starbucks next door, and still feel a bit impatient. The many workers behind the deli counter certainly move quickly, but the demand here is great. Sandwich selections abound – I was tempted by the capri, featuring spiced ham, prosciutto, genoa salami and provalone, and other options from the mortadella-anchored Genoa to the spicy Napoli, looked equally enticing. Meanwhile, I’m trying to figure out how I can work pancetta into the menu for my upcoming birthday party.
    My sandwich, a small version, cost me around $8 once they added in all the fixings, and in general, the place’s selection of imported pastas, wine, cheeses and other ingredients doesn’t necessarily appear cheap. But it’s good, and if I can’t waste my money on food, what can I waste it on?
    Next time, I’ll try to resist a sandwich and give the place’s pizza a try – the pies looked pretty New York-tastic upon first glance. But does that mean no prosciutto? No worries. They’ll even put it on your pizza.
    The Italian Store
    3123 Lee Highway
    Arlington, VA 22201
    703/528-6266

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