This guest blog is by Erin over at at The Kitchenette
Warren Brown, founder of CakeLove, has an expanding bakery chain, a Food Network series and a cupboard filling fast with features from People Magazine, Oprah, and an array of dazzled national media elites. For this litigator-turned-boutique baker, the sky’s the limit. But right here at home, CakeLove has left some customers dissatisfied. Too dry. Not fluffy enough. Overpriced. Overrated. Many of the DC bloggers are not fans, and CakeLove knows it.
Head baker Mary Meyers sends The Kitchenette a message to the food blogosphere with a recipe for a lovelier CakeLove experience: http://thekitchenette.blogspot.com/2005/10/message-from-cakelove.html
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13Oct
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11Oct
Hey…I didn’t order a pizza…
(cue music: bowmp chica bomp-bomp chica bow-wow)
Sure, we’ve all tossed around the term “food porn” more than a few times. Some accuse magazines like Gourmet and Bon Appetit of propagating it. Hey, even this website could be considered one form.
But journalist and author Frederick Kaufman, who has just published the book A Short History Of The American Stomach, has taken the thought one step further. He’s accusing the Food Network of being nothing more than Food Porn in its purest form. And no, we’re not just talking about the misty lens and low-cut tops featured on “Everyday Italian”.
Some of Kaufman’s points about the network – its reliance on sound effects, its camera angles, etc., are well-taken. But Rachael Ray as the “innocent girl next door”? Tyler Florence as the aforementioned salacious pizza man? The guy may be taking a few liberties with his analogies.
But judge for yourself: Check out a transcript of his discussion with On The Media here -
11Oct
In what has to be one of the first rail/food crossover events, the Smithsonian Resident Associate program has announced a rail cuisine inspired event: Dining by Rail: A Soot-to-Souffle Journey. On Wednesday, November 2nd, the program will host rail historian James D. Porterfield, author of Dining by Rail and From the Dining Car, and will serve a four course dinner of authentic rail fare, prepared by guest chef Warren C. McLeod.
The menu includes:- Oven Roasted Butternut Squash Soup
- Smoked Tomato Bretonne
- Marinated 7 Grilled Salmon Pooled in a Corn Puree with a Black Bean Salsa
- Fruit Upiside-Down Pudding
We, unfortunately, won’t be attending but we’d love to hear from anyone who does.
Tickets are $95. The event begins at 6:30 p.m. on November 2nd. Click here for more details. -
10Oct
What do you do when you’re feeling homesick and in a country that can’t figure out how to make a decent hamburger? You make meatloaf, of course. But not just any meatloaf: A Bachelor’s “Better Than Steak” Meatloaf.
I’d love to say this was a family recipe handed down through six or seven generations, but it actually comes from the classic 1994 The Great American Meatloaf Contest Cookbook, modified slightly to suit my taste.
It’s not your normal meatloaf. Instead of pouring on the ketchup to cover up the taste of heaps of meat, this meatloaf uses bread, cream, and cheese to accentuate the taste of a beef/pork/veal mixture. It’s a rolled meatloaf, meaning you create the meatloaf exterior and then roll it around the insides, making the final output a series of layers. I’ve made it several times for friends and dinner parties, always to rave reviews.
Ingredients:
Meat Mixture
1 small white onion, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
6-8 fresh basil leaves; minced
2 large eggs, slightly beaten
1/8 tsp salt
1/8 tsp black pepper
8-10 drops Worcestershire sauce
2½ lbs ground beef
1¼ lbs ground veal
¾ lb ground mild pork sausage
Editor’s note: You can modify the meat mixture to taste. I’ve also used a beef/turkey/pork mixture, a beef/lamb/pork mixture and, for smaller loafs, just a beef/pork mixture. I’m a fan of very lean beef for health reasons, but the higher-fat beef does give it a bit more flavor
Filling
½ small loaf sour-dough French bread
½ cup half and half or full cream
1 cup crumbled bleu cheese
3 tbsp minced fresh parsley
Preparation Instructions
First, create your meat mixture. In a large bowl, combine the various types of meat, adding in the onions, garlic, salt, pepper, Worcestershire sauce, basil, and eggs. Making meatloaf requires getting dirty. Wash your hands and then mix the meat up thoroughly by kneading through it with your hands. This will take some effort, but is worth it — otherwise you’ll end up with the beef, pork, and veal all in different parts of the meatloaf.
Next, lay down a strip of about 12 inches of wax paper or aluminum foil. Pull the meat out of the bowl and flatten it out on the foil. It should be about 1/3″ thick, a little smaller than the width of the foil, and extend, well, until you run out of meat. Keep two small pieces of meat aside.
Now, find a long pan (a baking pan will do). Then, slide the French bread lengthwise so that you’ve got the crust and some soft bread. Pour half-and-half or cream in the bottom of the pan and then lay the bread on top of the half-and-half. Press the bread downwards so it sucks up all the cream. Take the bread and lay it on top of the meat. Repeat this with the remaining pieces of the bread until the meat is covered. Leave about a quarter inch on each side of the bread, as you’ll want to be able to seal the meat when you’re finished. Next, take crumbled blue cheese and spread it out on top of the meat. Add parsley (I’ve also used rosemary, which adds some nice flavor).
Now for the fun part. You want to roll the meatloaf up. Starting on one end, use the paper to roll the meatloaf, as if you were rolling up a newspaper. Keep it pretty tight, if you can. You want it to look like a cake roll. When you’re finished, seal the two ends of the meatloaf using the extra meat you kept around.
Place the meatloaf on a lightly oiled cookie sheet. Cook in a pre-heated 375 degree oven for approximately one hour (depending on the size of the meatloaf). Let stand for 10-15 minutes before serving.
And let us know if you try it! -
05Oct
I’m always on the lookout for a good shrimp enchilada. Despite being disappointed by most seafood/Mexican combinations I’ve tried when restaurant-hopping, I still hold out that someone’s going to blow me away. But whether it be the chain offerings at Chevy’s, or Alero’s bland attempt, I’ve yet to be impressed.
But when I went to Mexicali Blues in Clarendon Friday night, I was pleasantly surprised that their take on the dish was a little unique and definitely delicious. The enchiladas are served in an orange-colored, creamy sauce that really makes the meal. Portion sizes are sufficient, but not overdone. The rest of our trip was less impressive – slow service, mediocre mojitos, pupusas that can’t hold a candle to Samantha’s – but loved those enchiladas.
Has anyone encountered a more deserving candidate for the Best Shrimp Enchilada crown? -
02Oct
Your humble Chicago correspondant picked up some frozen dosas at a grocery on Devon Avenue, the main drag for Indian and traditional Jewish products around here. They look like this:
Dosariffic, right? Take a look at this detail from the bottom right of the box:
What the heck is “sluffy”? -
02Oct
From the DCFUD mailbox, a reader writes in with an important question:I have to make a big New Orleans dinner for a fundraiser. Do you know where I can buy good andouille in DC? Is there a bakery that sells beignets and King Cake? And can a gumbo or jambalaya be made ahead of time, in whole or part? Any information you might want to share would be so much appreciated – the fundraiser is for my son, who lost his house, car, everything but the shirt off his back.
For andouille, we recommend checking out Whole Foods or Wegmans. As for a gumbo or jambalaya recipe, we don’t have any great ones, but we bet some of our readers have some great recipes and recommendations.
As for us, whenever we’re craving jambalaya, gumbo, or beignets, we head over to the best creole restaurant in the city, if not on the entire east coast: Bardia’s New Orleans Cafe. I’d imagine they’d be happy to sell their beignets and jambalaya in bulk, especially for a fund raiser. Bardia’s is located at 2412 18th Street NW in Adams Morgan, and they can be reached at 202-234-0420.
Any other suggestions out there from our readers? Feel free to post in the comments below or, if you’d rather, contact us directly via email.
Image courtesy The Georgetown Hoya. -
30Sep
Sometimes when you go to a restaurant, you wonder if your experience there is all about mindset. The first time I went to News Café in Georgetown, I had spent the day traipsing around Georgetown during the blizzard. My friends and I were starving and just looking for anything edible – with the less-than-authentic name, we expected serviceable Italian at best. We ended up with a delicious dining experience in a beautiful space (my love of wrought iron and maroon definitely endeared me to the decor).
Somehow the night has been mythologized in our minds since then, and the same group of friends who hit it the first time decided to join me there again when in town for my birthday. And this time, our irrationally high expectations resulted in merely competent results.
Our first trip featured a delicious Pinot Grigio recommended by the restaurant, perfectly light calamari, and three entrees we gobbled up eagerly. I enjoyed my crabmeat stuffed shrimp, accented with lemon; my sister gave raves to her prosciutto-topped veal, and we all were wowed by my friend Becky’s creamy pesto spinach fettucini with salmon, which was one of the night’s specials. In fact, I’d hoped that same special would be available this time around.
News Café seems super-eager to keep its customers. They sent me a $10 gift certificate for my birthday (I neglected to read the weeknights-only fine print, so it will have to be used another time). They awarded my sister a coupon for free dessert for recommending the place to her friends, one of whom sat at our table with her own coupon for free chocolate covered strawberries.
Celebrating my birthday and armed with our many coupons, the night was starting to feel like an event. And it still ended up an enjoyable one, if not as amazing as we’d expected.
The $25 bottle of Pinot Grigio we ordered wasn’t as tasty as we’d remembered (inflated memories?), but that didn’t stop us from ordering two bottles of it. Our waitress wasn’t the cheerful, accommodating woman full of suggestions we’d had the last time, but she was certainly fine (though we were denied the use of one of our dessert coupons for no real reason). Fresh mozzarella and tomato was nothing overwhelming, but hit the spot. And man, that calamari was still tasty.
But the entrees seemed a bit more mediocre. No complaints from my sister about her veal, but my tortellini with prosciutto was definitely too salty. A friend’s shrimp pesto pizza was a bit more bland and congealed than I’d like to see, though she enjoyed it. And sadly, no salmon pesto special available.
But to be honest, if we hadn’t been expecting the moon, we probably would have been more than satisfied with our visit. So give News Cafe a shot – just don’t expect the meal of a lifetime. -
26Sep
It’s that time of year where we get a whiff of fall. This leads to one of my favorite activites – apple picking. We go to Homestead Farm in Poolesville, MD off River Road and get a haul of Golden Delicious (appropriately named), Jonathan, and Granny Smith apples. All good for cobblers, applesauce and, of course, fried pies.
For anyone who harbors the illusion that I am a sophistimacated foodie, I have this recipe to offer – fried apple pie. My first taste of a true fried pie was in Dollywood where they were the size of dinner plates. My arteries are still recovering. It was the perfect cross between pie and doughnut. Since DC is hardly the fried pie capitol of the world, I needed to figure out how to make my own or go without until our next Dollywood trip.
Thank god for Paula Deen, grand empress of tacky Southern food. Literally a week after the infamous Dollywood trip, there was a recipe for fried pie on Paula’s Home Cooking. It lived up to all of my fried pie memories.
I’d have to say that this is truly in the top ten of trashy food I have made. It uses a canned biscuit dough for heaven’s sake.
Fried Pies
1 canned flaky biscuit dough (should have 8 biscuits)
5 firm apples (Granny Smith, Courtland) peeled and chopped in to 1 inch chunks
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon
Juice of 1/2 a lemon
1 tablespoon cornstarch
Raisins or dried cranberries (optional)
Vegetable oil
Mix the apples, sugar, cinnamon, and lemon juice in a bowl. Toss thoroughly and add the cornstarch. Simmer under low heat until apples are soft and have given up some of their juices. Pour of out some of the juices.
Roll out the biscuit dough until 1/2 inch thick. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of the apple mixture onto the circle of dough. Brush the edge with water and fold over in half. Press the edge with a fork to seal.
Deep fry in hot oil unto golden brown. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Eat. Resolve to eat salad and sushi for the next week. -
22Sep
A couple weekends ago, I was puppy sitting my
parentsnew dog, Winston. Stuck in the far reaches of Upper Northwest, and isolated from my usual weekend activities (OK, fine, that mostly means cleaning my apartment, but still), I decided, at the last minute as usual, to bring the fun to me and have people over to cook brunch.
WRC and EJG arrived with fixings to make plum pancakes with blueberry sauce, JK with salad and roasting peppers, SNH with corn for grilling, PL with assorted pastries, NM and MA with requisite beverages. I had not planned so much as bought things that looked like a good idea: Ricotta Saltada and Niçoise olives in Herbes de Provence from Whole Foods, eggs and cream (from the Giant). As the others cooked, PL and I schemed the fate of said orphan ingredients.
Omlettes were going to be much too much of a hassle, and not very interesting, so I thought that perhaps we could fake a Spanish-style torta – like the ones I’d loved so much in Sevilla last year, only minus the potatoes. What we did:

9 eggs
½ cup heavy cream
½ cup milk
Chopped Niçoise olives in herbes de Provence
Ricotta Saltada, shaved.
3 large cherry tomatoes, chopped.
Tarragon
Savory
Black Pepper
Nutmeg (ONLY A PINCH!)
Bake at 400 for about 30 minutes.
The result was yummy, but probably too sweet. This could be corrected by using light instead of heavy cream, or by omitting the tomatoes. I feel like the latter might be a good idea, but it needs a non-salty flavor, and I’m not sure what would be better. Onions? Spinach? Hmmm……
This is why I love experimental cuisine.
